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WILLIAM THOMSON, 

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Author of ' A Practical Treatise on the Culture of the Grape Vine.' 

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THE GRAPE VINE 



Lately published, price 5s., 

A PRACTICAL TREATISE 



ON THE 



CULTURE OF THE PINE-APPLE. 



By DAVID THOMSON, 

Gardener to His Grace the Duke of Buccleuch at Drumlanrig. 

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that this volume contains no directions that are not sound and tested by experience. He 
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culture. One or two extracts will give an idea of its contents." — The Journal of Horticulture. 

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gladly pronounce it the best work extant upon this important subject. In size and style it 
is a companion work to his brother's on the vine, and, like that excellent book, it deals" with 
work all through in a plain workmanlike way— not a word wasted, not a secret held back, not 
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"A cheap, concise, and complete directory for the guidance of pine-apple growers, the re- 
sult of long and eminently successful practical experience."— T/ie Farmer. 



WILLIAM BLACKWOOD & SONS, Edinburgh and London. 



A PRACTICAL TREATISE 



CULTIYATION OF THE GRAPE VINE 



WILLIAM THOMSON 

GARDENER TO HIS GRACE THE DOKE OF BUCCLEUCH, K.G., ETC. 
DALKEITH PARK, SCOTLAKD 



SIXTH EDITION, ENLARGED 



WILLIAM BLACKWOOD A^^^D SONS 
EDTNBUEGH AND LONDON 
MDCCCLXIX 



The Right of Translation is reserved 



TO HIS GKACE 



THE DTJKE OF BUCCLEUCH AND QUEENSBEREY, 

K.G. ETC. 

TO WHOSE MUNIFICENT LIBERALITY AND PATRONAGE 
HORTICULTURE OWES SO MUCH, 

C^is S>mM ^ahmt 

IS DEDICATED 
BY HIS grace's MOST OBEDIENT SERVANT, 
THE AUTHOR. 



PKEFACE TO FIRST EDITION. 



In common with most gardeners similarly situated, I 
am often applied to, by amateurs and others interested 
in vine-culture, for advice and instructions on various 
points connected tlierewitli; and much of the substance 
of this Treatise has been sent, at different times and in 
detached portions, in reply to such applications ; and 
I may add that, in preparing it for publication in its 
present shape, I am but yielding to the urgent requests 
of not a few of those who profess to have reaped useful 
instruction from my private communications on the 
subject of which it treats. 

I have endeavoured as much as I could to avoid 
technicalities, and to be as brief as possible, consistent 
with making the subject in hand clear; and I have 
resisted the temptation of being led into lengthened 
physiological explanations of the facts I deal with. 
All I recommend I have in my own practice proved 
to be correct, and can do it with confidence. 

WM. THOMSON. 

August 1862. 



Second Edition piiblished Septemler 1862. 
Thikd Edition published April 1863. 
EouRTH Edition yublislied January 1865. 
Fifth Edition puhlished June 1867. 



PREFACE TO SIXTH EDITION. 



In preparing this edition for the press, such additions 
have been made to some of the chapters as a constantly 
extending knowledge of the wants of amateur culti- 
vators especially seemed to demand. A chapter on 
Vine-roots is also given, and a series of notes on the 
most celebrated Vines I am acquainted with, with a 
description of the earliest Vinery of which I can find 
any record. 

It is a source of much gratification to me that my 
humble efi'orts to extend and simplify the cultivation 
of one of the noblest and most generous plants cul- 
tivated by man have met with such signal success. 



Dalkeith Gardens, May 28, 1869. 



WM. THOMSON. 



CONTENTS. 



PAGE 



THE GRAPE VINE, ..... 1 

SHAPE AND SIZE OF VINERY, ' . . . .2 

ATMOSPHERIC HEAT OF VINERY, .... 5 

BOTTOM HEAT, ...... 7 

VENTILATION, . . . . . .11 

CONSTRUCTION OF VINERY, . . . .12 

SUBSOIL AND DRAINAGE, . . . . .13 

COVERINGS FOR BORDERS, . . . . .14 

COMPOSTS SUITABLE FOR VINES, . . . .15 

YOUNG VINES FOR PLANTING, . . . .20 

SEASON FOR PLANTING VINES, . . . .24 

VARIOUS WAYS OF PLANTING VINES, . . .25 

TREATMENT OF VINES FIRST YEAR AFTER PLANTING, . 28 

THE SECOND YEAR's TREATMENT, . . . .29 

THE FRUITING YEAR, . . , . .32 

PRUNING VINES, ...... 36 

GRAFTING AND INARCHING VINES, . . . .37 

FRUITING GRAPE VINES IN POTS, . . . .38 

SELECTION OF VINES, . . . . .41 

RIVAL SYSTEMS OF VINE-CULTURE, . . .42 

THE DISEASES VINES ARE SUBJECT TO, . . . 48 

RED SPIDER, . . . . .51 



viii CONTENTS. 

RUST ON GRAPES, ...... 54 

MILDEW ON THE VINE, . . . . .55 

WARTS ON THE BACK OF THE LEAF, . . . .57 

AIR-ROOTS ON THE VINES, . . . . 58 

SCALDING, ...... 58 

STOCKS FOR TENDER VINES, . . . .59 

PACKING GRAPES, . . . . . . 60 

KEEPING GRAPES AFTER THEY ARE RIPE, . . .61 

amateur's vinery CALENDAR, . . . .63 

EXPERIMENTS WITH VINES, . . . .65 

vine-roots, ...... 74 

OPEN-AIR CULTURE, . . . . . 75 

NOTES ON CELEBRATED VINES, . . . .79 



CULTIVATION OF THE GEAPE VINE. 



THE GKAPE VINE. 

This well-known plant, the Vitis vinifera of the bota- 
nist, has, during the whole historic period of the world, 
occupied in many parts of the earth a large share of 
man's attention. Its origin can be pretty clearly traced 
to Asia, though it is now said to be growing wild in 
many parts of the south of Europe ; and what are sup- 
posed to be indigenous species or varieties are found in 
America. It was probably first introduced into Europe 
by the Eomans soon after the foundation of Kome. 
What may be termed a temperate climate is that most 
suitable for its cultivation. The soil it delights most 
in is a calcareous loam on a dry subsoil. The varieties 
of grape vines may be said to be endless. The French 
Government on one occasion made a collection of 1400 
varieties in a nursery at the Luxemburg, and this was 
supposed to be only a moiety of those in cultivation 
in France alone. 

The cultivation of grapes has at the present day as- 
sumed an importance in this country which, fifty years 
ago, no one could have contemplated; partly owing to 

A 



2 



SHAPE AND SIZE OF VINEHY. 



the increase of wealth., but chiefly in consequence of the 
duty being off glass, so that now a vinery has become a 
necessary adjunct to every villa residence, and is no 
longer confined to the walled-in gardens of the great of 
the land. And as these pages are principally intended 
for the guidance of the proprietors of the former, who 
are not supposed to employ scientific gardeners, I shall 
endeavour to make myself as plain and easily under- 
stood as possible; and the directions I purpose giving 
will be founded chiefly on my own practice, from which 
I will also draw any illustrations I may think necessary 
as I proceed. 

SHAPE AND SIZE OF VINERY. 

These may be as various as the tastes and means of 
their proprietors, and all produce good grapes; at the 
same time, there are forms and sizes which both philo- 
sophical deduction and experience have proved to be 
the best for given purposes. When one of these is the 
production of early grapes, there is no form of vinery 
so suitable as what is known as a "lean-to," with a 
due southern aspect, of which fig. 1 is a section ; the 
general construction and heating of which will be re- 
ferred to under those heads. 

Where the wish is to have late grapes — by which I 
mean grapes ripe in the end of August, to hang till 
February or March — the span-roofed form is the best 
and most economical, and should be placed with one 
end to the south and the other to the north. Fig. 2 is 
a section of the most elegant design of this description 
of vinery, though, from the nature of the top ventila- 
tion, it is much more expensive than fig. 3, which, for 
practical purposes, is equally good, the only difference 



SHAPE AND SIZE OF VINERY. 



3 



Fig. 1. 




4 SHAPE AND SIZE OF VINERY. 

Fig, 2. 




ATMOSPHEEIO HEAT OF VINERY. 



5 



being the more finished and sprightly appearance of the 
former as compared Avith the latter. 

ATMOSPHERIC HEAT OF VINERY. 

At the present day there is no question that the best 
means for supplying this is hot water in pipes 4 inches 
diameter. And let me here guard against the mistaken 
economy which is so often practised, of fixing too 
limited an extent of radiating surface to throw ofi* a 
given amount of heat. This leads to the constant stir- 
ring of the fire to keep the water in the pipes as near 
the boiling point as possible, entailing a far greater 
expenditure of fuel than if there were a third more 
pipe in the house. And it is well known to gardeners 
that a given heat from a moderately heated surface 
is more congenial to vegetation than the same heat 
derived from a more limited but highly heated surface. 
My own experience goes to prove that, in a \dnery where 
grapes are expected to be ripe in March or April, there 
should not be less than one superficial foot of radiating 
sm^face for every 1 6 cubic feet of air the house contains. 
One foot in length of 4 -inch pij)e presents about one 
superficial foot of radiating surface. This would be 
something like four rows of pipe round front and ends 
of a vinery 13 feet high at back, 2 feet in front, and 13 
feet in width, which are the dimensions of the early 
vineries at Dalkeith Palace, where a steaming-tray and 
ventilator, as shown in figs. 4 and 5, are also used. The 
tray is admirably adapted for supplying moisture to the 
atmosphere of the house, and is so far self-acting and 
regulating, that when the pipes are at the greatest heat, 
and the house at the highest temperature, it gives ofi" 
the greatest amount of moisture, and vice versa. The 



6 ATMOSPHERIC HEAT OF VINERY. 

ventilator (fig. 5, page 12) is a plan I have devised and 
used during winter for letting a constant stream of air 



Fig. 4.' 




STEAMING-TRAY. 

The water flows in the direction indicated by the arrow, ascending by the small 
pipe A into the tray, and by gravitation along the tray from B to C, descend- 
ing again into main circulation by the other small pipe D. 

into the house, which, before it escapes amongst the 
foliage of the vines, must of necessity become as hot as 
the atmosphere of the house. To this mode of admit- 
ting a constant stream of air previously heated into our 
early vinery, I attribute to some extent the extra- 
ordinary fine flavour of early grapes we began to cut 
on the 1st of January 1862. 

With regard to boilers, I think it unnecessary to say 
much; their name is legion, and many of them are 
good. My own observation has led me to prefer those 
that expose the greatest heat-absorbing surface, not 
under the fire, or by the side of it, but immediately 
over it, provided always that their construction is such 
that every portion of their heat-absorbing surface can 
be swept clear of soot and ashes daily ; for if these are 
allowed to gather on the boiler, they will, as non-con- 
ductors of heat, destroy its heating power to the extent 
of the surface they cover. Cast-iron boilers, if properly 
constructed, are as safe, much cheaper, and last double 
the time of malleable-iron boilers. 



BOTTOM HEAT. ^ 7 

As a rule, it is much the safest plan to employ a 
respectable hot -water engineer to erect the heating 
apparatus, subject to specifications drawn by some one 
practically acquainted with the degree of temperature 
required, and the extent of pipe necessary to that end, 
the contractor to be bound to keep the whole in work- 
ing order for one year after erection ; and if at this 
date the boiler is sound, and the joints and valves all 
right, the inference is that they will continue so for 
many years. ^ 

The pipes should be painted a dull black colour, as 
being that most suitable for radiating heat. 



BOTTOM HEAT. 

Gardeners have for many years felt that it was ex- 
ceedingly unnatural to place the branches of the vine 
in a high temperature, while the roots were in the cold 
soil of the border outside the house, and they have had 
recourse to various expedients to remedy this clearly 
recognised evil. Hot fermenting dung has been applied 
to the surface of the border, which did some good, 
more by its negative than its positive action, in so far 
as, if the heat from it did not penetrate the border to 
any depth, it at least, if applied in autumn, prevented 
the escape of the heat the border had derived from the 
sun during the summer. Wooden shutters, and in 
some instances glass, have been laid on the surface of 
the border to prevent the radiation of its natural heat. 
All these methods were well known to be very defec- 
tive ; and it is only of late years that the heating of 
vine-borders from beneath by means of hot- water pipes, 
as shown in fig. 1, has placed the temperature of the 
roots as completely under the gardener's control as that 



8 



BOTTOM HEAT. 



of the branches has always been. Where the expense 
of stone pavement for covering the pipes is an objec- 
tion to its use, the same end may be arrived at by first 
laying the pipes on pieces of half-inch round iron, rest- 
ing on a smooth stone surface, at intervals of 9 feet 
apart. These bits of iron will act as rollers, and enable 
the pipes to expand and contract without the risk 
of " drawing" the joints. The pipes should then be 
covered with a small brick drain full of loopholes on 
each side, taking care that none of the covering bricks 
rest on the pipes. From these loopholes hot-air drains 
should be run right and left with dry bricks, or by 
using common drain-tiles, on the top of which 6 inches 
of brickbats should be laid, and then the turf, as 
already recommended. I find that the application of 
the bottom heat for eight days raises the temperature 
of the border to 60°; and when this is indicated by the 
underground thermometer, the heat may be shut off, 
and will only have to be applied for a similar period 
when the vines are setting. 

"While the present edition of this work is being pre- 
pared for publication, a keen discussion, which origi- 
nated in the columns of the ' Gardeners' Chronicle,' is 
extending itself to the whole horticultural press, as to 
the advantages or disadvantages of artificially supplied 
bottom heat for vine -borders from hot -water pipes 
placed under the borders, either in chambers or amongst 
rubble. My own opinion, founded on experience, is, 
that the subject scarcely admits of discussion, so evi- 
dent are its advantages if used with discretion, as every 
other appliance of the sort ought to be. A single 
example of its beneficial influence may be seen in the 
gardens here at this time, April 2d, and it is enough to 
convince any unprejudiced mind. 



BOTTOM HEAT. 



9 



In the montli of May last year I planted a cucumber- 
house with young vines, principally from eyes the 
same year. Their roots are confined to a border inside 
the house, 4^ feet wide and 18 inches deep. This 
border is heated by two rows of 4 -inch pipes under 
pavement. There are no means of turning off this 
bottom heat. Under one end of the pit there is a tank 
for collecting rain-water 9 feet long, where there is no 
bottom heat. There are two vines planted in this 
division — one a white Frontignau, the other a Eoyal 
Muscadine. During last summer these two vines did 
not make the progress the others of the same kinds did 
where they had bottom heat. And this year the dif- 
ference is far more remarkable. In consequence of the 
house being used for forcing strawberries and French 
beans, the vines were started at a higher temperature 
than they ought otherwise to have been. The bottom 
heat soon rose to 95°, and for a few days it was 100°. 
Those that have bottom heat broke quicker by fourteen 
days, showing far more fruit than those that have it 
not, and are now set and ready for thinning, while 
those in the cold border are not in bloom ; nor is their 
foliage much more than half the size of the same sorts 
of vines where they have the bottom heat. I give this 
as an example of the good effect, as far as it goes, of 
bottom heat for vines when applied to an extent that 
many utterly condemn. And I confess that if I had a 
stop-valve on the bottom-heat pipes, I would moderate 
the heat as compared with what it is ; I will, however, 
be guided as to whether I place one there by the results 
at the end of the forcing season. 

The mere heating of the soil of the border by these 
appliances is not the only advantage that results. There 
is the additional and important one of the constant 



10 



BOTTOM HEAT. 



passage of air through the soil, forced up through it 
when heat expands that in the air-drains and interstices 
amongst the brickbats, and down through it when the 
air in the drains cools and contracts. 

When the difficulty of getting a boiler fixed at a 
sufficiently low level to heat the pipes for warming the 
border cannot be overcome, as must often be the case 
where the country is level and the drainage bad, the 
best substitute is, to make all the arrangements as to 
air-drains I have described as necessary when pipes are 
laid, and to connect these subsoil air-chambers with the 
atmosphere of the interior of the vinery by a series of 
drain-pipes along the front of the house near the hot- 
water pipes. Along the back wall of the vinery con- 
struct an underground air-chain, to be connected by a 
series of pipes, 4 inches in diameter, with the general 
underground air-chambers of the border. From this 
drain another series of pipes should be carried up the 
back wall some 7 or 8 feet, where they should have 
openings into the interior of the vinery ; and if the flue 
from the boiler is made to run along the back wall in 
such a way as to heat the air in the upright air-drains, 
it will become lighter, and escape into the general 
atmosphere of the house ; while at the same time a 
current of air will pass down the front air-pipes already 
referred to, at a lower temperature than that escaping 
from the outlets in the back wall, but sufficiently 
warm to be of great benefit to the roots of the vines. 
This arrangement has the additional advantage of keep- 
ing: the air in the house in constant motion. There is 
also the possibility of making such arrangements in 
forming a vine-border as to admit of the application of 
dung -linings for warming the soil. It is, however, 
only necessary to have heat applied to the roots, as 



VENTILATION. 



11 



here described, in cases where grapes have to be forced 
early. If the vines are not started till the beginning 
of March they will do perfectly well without it, as is 
evident from everyday experience. 

VENTILATION. 

This is a point of great importance, and, in very 
early forcing, one of considerable difficulty ; for it not 
unfrequently happens that, after a severe frost at night, 
requiring hot pipes, the sun breaks forth in the morn- 
ing and raises the temperature of the vinery beyond a 
safe point, while at the same time the wind may be 
piercingly cold. In such circumstances there is no 
alternative but to open the top ventilators, when the 
hot air will rush out; but at the same time another 
current will rush into the house, of air too cold to be 
admitted amongst the tender foliage of the vine with 
safety. To modify this evil, it is a good plan to have 
a light wooden frame made to fit the ventilating open- 
ing, and over this frame to tack a sheet of perforated 
zinc, or a double piece of Hawthorn's hexagonal net- 
ting. This will break up the rush of air into a great 
many small streams that will more readily mingle with 
the hot air of the house, and get so far heated before it 
reaches the foliage. 

It would be no safer to admit the cold air by the 
front ventilating-sashes to take the place of that mak- 
ing its exit by the top ones, unless some means were 
employed to take the chill off it before it is discharged 
into the body of the house. For this purpose I have 
designed what I have termed " The Hot- Air Ventilator" 
(fig. 5). This apparatus consists of a sheath of copper 
placed over a row of the front pipes. The diameter of 



12 



CONSTRUCTION OF VINERY. 



this sheath is one inch more than the hot pipe it en- 
closes, consequently there is an open space of half an 
inch all round the pipe inside the sheath. This cavity 
is fed with fresh air from the exterior of the house 
by a pipe 5 inches in diameter, which springs from 



Fig. 5. 




HOT-AIR VENTILATOR. 



the low^er surface of the sheath, and passes through 
the front wall of the house to the external a^r. There 
is a valve in this feed-pipe to modify the supply of 
fresh air at pleasure. In the upper surface of the sheath 
is a double row of small holes, so that the moment the 
cold air comes into the chamber round the pipe, and 
gets hot, expanded, and lighter, it makes its exit 
through these holes into the general atmosphere of the 
house. In our early vineries the valves are kept open 
constantly, both night and day, with great advantage 
to both fruit and foliage. 

CONSTRUCTION OP VINERY. 

As a rule, whether for early or late forcing, I prefer 
a good-sized house — say, height of back wall, 1 5 feet ; 
width of house, 1 5 feet ; height of front sashes, 2 feet ; 
length, 40 feet. A house of these dimensions has a 
good length of rafter, which enables the vines to carry 



SUBSOIL AND DRAINAGE. 



13 



a large extent of foliage, and become vigorous plants as 
compared with those confined to a short rafter ; and the 
roof presents an angle of about 35° to the sun — a very 
suitable one for a vinery ; while the length of the rafter 
will be about 19 feet. If the roof is constructed of 
sashes and rafters, the sashes should be 6 feet wide, so 
as to afford space enough for training one vine-rod up 
under each rafter, and one in the centre of each sash : 
if all of astragals, as is sometimes the case, the rods 
may be regulated as to distance from each other at 
pleasure. The wires to which the vines are tied should 
not be nearer the glass than 16 inches, and should run 
at right angles with the rafters. When they are too 
close to the glass, as is often the case, the leaves come 
in contact with it, when they get killed by being, as 
some say, scorched, but in reality frozen. These wires 
should be within 10 or 12 inches of each other. There 
is no pathway so suitable, either for a vinery or peach- 
house, as iron-grating. In a house of the dimensions 
I have here indicated, and where grapes are to be 
ripe in April, there should not be less than 300 feet of 
4 -inch pipe for surface or atmospheric heat, in addi- 
tion to which there should be a steaming-tray, which 
gives off fully as much heat itself as one row of pipe. 
The front and ends of the house should rest either on 
pillars or arches, so as to give the roots free access to 
the outside as well as inside border. 

SUBSOIL AND DRAINAGE. 

Where the entire border is heated by hot-water pipes 
covered with Caithness pavement, as shown in fig. 1, 
any excess of water that may fall on the border will 
descend through the joints of the pavement to the 



14 COVERINGS FOR BORDERS. 

cliamber tlie pipes occupy, from which a drain should 
be laid down to remove it at once. But where bottom 
heat is not so applied, and where the subsoil is of a 
cold, wet, ferruginous clay or gravel, it must be well 
drained, so as to prevent the rise of spring water, and 
to remove all the rain water that percolates through 
the border. This done, a layer of concrete, 4 inches in 
depth, should be laid over the whole surface of the 
intended bed of the border, taking care that it has 
a slope of 1 inch in the foot towards the front, where 
there should be a good drain to draw off all water that 
finds its way to that point from the surface of the con- 
crete, and from the drains under it. On the concrete, 
as well as on the pavement, when the latter is used, 
a layer of 4 inches of rough brick - rubbish should be 
spread, then a course of turf with the grassy side down- 
wards, after which the compost may be wheeled in to 
form the border. Where the subsoil is honest clay or 
clear gravel,, concrete is not necessary. No rule can be 
laid down for width of borders ; I think it is ample if 
the width outside the house is the same as that inside. 
The depth inside should be 3 feet ; immediately outside, 
in front of house, 2i feet ; and at the extremity, 2 feet. 
A border formed to these dimensions will have a con- 
siderable declination towards the south, which will 
enable it to throw off the winter rains better, and during 
summer it will receive more benefit from the sun's rays 
than when flatter. 



COVERINGS FOR BORDERS. 

This is a matter of much importance, especially in 
the case of early-forced vines. Where the border is 
heated by hot-water pipes from beneath, all that is 



COMPOSTS SUITABLE FOE VINES. 15 

necessary is to lay some dry leaves, dry fern, or other 
litter, on tlie surface of the border to prevent radiation, 
and to cover it over with such as tarpaulins, oiled calico, 
wooden shutters, old hothouse lights, or straw thatch — 
any material that will throw off the greater portion of 
the winter rains will answer the purpose. Where vines 
are not started till March, any advantage they might 
derive from a permanent covering would be more than 
counterbalanced by the loss of the sun's rays on the 
border during the day. In such a case, a covering of 
coarse cloth of some sort thrown over the border in the 
evening and removed in the morning would be benefi- 
cial till the warm nights of June set in. Grapes that 
ripen in autumn and have to be kept till spring are 
supposed to keep better by having the border the 
roots of the vines are in kept dry during the winter. I 
have, however, kept Lady Downes Grrape hanging on 
the vine till May without a covering of any sort on the 
border. 

COMPOSTS SUITABLE FOR VINES. 

As previously remarked, the soil the vine thrives best 
in is a fibry calcareous loam, taken, not more than 3 
inches deep, from an old sheep or deer pasture. Such 
soil should consist of about 65 per cent sand, 39 per cent 
clay, and 5 per cent of chalk, with an abundance of 
vegetable fibre, giving it the character of what gardeners 
know as friable turfy loam. When the sand is in excess 
of what I have indicated, it may be termed sandy loam ; 
when the clay is in excess, clayey loam. The prepara- 
tion it should receive, and the ingredients that should 
be added to it, depend on its qualities in these respects. 
I will give an example of how it should be prepared, 



16 



COMPOSTS SUITABLE FOR VINES. 



supposing it to be of the medium quality I have de- 
scribed, and others applicable to cases where either sand 
or clay may be in excess. It may not be improper that 
I should remark here, that I have known fine vineries 
erected, and every preparation made calculated to pro- 
duce good crops of grapes, till the question of going into 
the park for the proper description of loam had to be 
mooted, when the proprietor very naturally refused to 
allow the breaking-up of any of his old pasture, and 
the gardener had to have recourse to unsuitable soil, 
probably out of a plantation, where in every morsel of 
decaying wood there were the spores of fungi that were 
certain one day to destroy the vigour of his vines, and 
in many cases kill them altogether.'"' This is a difficulty 
that, with proper explanation to a reasonable employer, 
might be removed, and no harm done to the sheep or 
deer pasture. Say that in some spot most out of view 
and the soil suitable, the necessary quantity of turf was 
cut, and thrown with the grass side downwards, there 
to lie till the first dry frosty day, when it should be 
carted and stacked while in a frozen state. It is of 
much importance that soil for a vine border should be 
taken during sharp frost, which drives the wire- worm 
to a depth the spade does not reach, and the peats are 
left in the field. For every cart-load brought out of 
the park, let a load of old rich garden-soil be laid down 
in its stead, be properly levelled, sown with a good cast 
of lawn-grass seeds and white clover, raked in, and 
have a roller run over it. If cattle are in the park at 
the time, a sheep-net can be run round it till it is green, 

* June 22, 1867. — A gentleman has just sent me a portion of the soil from 
the borders of four new vineries he has erected and planted this spring. It 
was taken from a turfy bank on which an old hedge grew, and I find it one 
mass of fungi, in such a state that it is impossible a vine or any other plant 
can thrive in it — caused, no doubt, by the decaying roots of the old hedge. 



COMPOSTS SUITABLE FOR VINES. 



17 



when the net may be removed; and, the sheep and 
deer being the judges, it will be by far the most 
esteemed portion of the park for many years. 

After this digression, let us suppose that the neces- 
sary quantity of suitable loam has been obtained, neither 
clay nor sand being in excess of what has been indicat- 
ed, and that it has been stacked for six months, so that 
the grass is dead and the whole mass dry. Then let it 
be cut down with a spade, and broken up with one of 
Park's five-tined forks in preference to the spade, and 
thrown into a ridge, taking care to have it kept so that 
a tarpaulin or some other cover can be thrown over it 
to keep it dry. To ten carts of this soil add two of lime- 
rubbish — old plaster is preferable, as it contains hair, 
itself a good manure ; one cart of thoroughly charred 
wood, including any wood-ashes that may be amongst 
it ; one cart of fresh horse-droppings ; 4 cwt. of broken 
bones, about one inch square ; and, if to be had, 2 cwt. 
of horn-shavings may be added. Have the whole mass 
turned over several times, but always in dry, if possible 
frosty, weather, before it is wheeled in to form the bor- 
der. This I can guarantee, from my own experience, 
will form a safe and fruitful vine-border ; the addition 
of more manure might give stronger canes for a few 
seasons, but they would be much more liable to suffer 
from excess of wet in winter; and when it is considered 
how easy it is to feed the roots of the vine with liquid 
manure at the seasons when it is most required, I can 
see no reason, but the opposite, in favour of making 
vine-borders so rich as some advocate. When the soil 
is what is termed clayey loam, I would add the same 
ingredients to it, with the addition of two cart-loads to 
the ten of burned clay, which acts as a mechanical dis- 
integrant, and keeps the particles of clay from getting 

B 



18 



COMPOSTS SUITABLE FOR VINES. 



too close together, and so preventing the entrance of air 
into the soil, or the percolation of water through it. Of 
burned clay, Dr Lindley, in his able work, ' The Theory 
and Practice of Horticulture,' speaks to this effect : 

Why burned clay should be better than that sort of 
soil in its ordinary condition is sufficiently obvious — 
its texture is changed. In its natural state it is so ad- 
hesive that air cannot get into it. It also offers great 
mechanical opposition to the passage of roots through 
its viscid mass, and hence it is exclusively inhabited by 
a coarse and worthless vegetation. Burning changes 
all this ; the particles of clay lose their adhesiveness, 
and this gives a new character to the soil, which offers 
freedom to the entrance of air and exit of water, and 
which crumbles readily away beneath the advancing 
roots of any race of plants. But that is not all the 
difference betwixt burned and unburned clay : the roots 
of plants which it previously contained were unable to . 
decay, and are now by fire reduced to their saline con- 
stituents, and so enrich the soil ; and, moreover, the 
burned particles of clay acquire the power of absorbing 
ammonia from the air, and holding it within their pores 
till showers fall and wash it into the land, where it 
immediately acts as a nourishing food for plants.'^ 

When the soil is what is termed light sandy loam, 
add all the ingredients except the burned clay, which 
need not necessarily be used, as the compost will be 
porous enough without it, though it will do no harm ; 
but add double the quantity of horse- droppings, and 
half the quantity of lime-rubbish. 

As many who are anxious to grow grapes may not 
be able to obtain access to a sheep or deer park to 
procure the loam I have described as most suitable 
for vines, I will here indicate a compost that will 



COMPOSTS SUITABLE FOR VINES. 



19 



grow excellent grapes, and that is at tlie same time 
Avithin the reach of all who possess a garden. Take 
of the ordinary garden-soil one-half the quantity re- 
quired to make up the border, lay it in sharp ridges 
to get a winter's frost, then procure one-fourth the 
quantity required of the parings of turf-edgings and 
the scourino;s of ditches, with the addition of a few 
barrow-loads of clay ; then get together all the clip- 
pings of hedges, the prunings of fruit-trees, with any 
other refuse of a kindred nature ; build all into a 
heap and set fire to it, piling it round with the turf- 
parings and clay already referred to, till the whole 
forms a cone, with a fire in its centre. After it has 
burned for some days, and the whole has got thor- 
oughly hot tlirough, and the wood all charred, ex- 
tinguish it by pouring on the hot mass the drainage of 
cowbyres, pigsties, or any similar liquid ; and while 
still in a hot state, mix it with the common garden- 
soil that has been for some time in ridges. To every 
ten loads of this compost add one of old lime-rubbish, 
one of horse-droppings, 4 cwt. of bones about an inch 
square, 2 cwt. horn-shavings, when they can be pro- 
cured, and if they cannot, let superphosphate of lime 
take their place. Let the whole be turned over more 
than once, but always in dry weather, and it will form 
an excellent compost for vines. 

For reasons that all gardeners understand, I would 
not make the whole width of the border at the time 
the vines are planted, but would make up, say, 6 feet 
inside the house, and the same width outside. This 
will be found ample for the roots of the vines to run 
in for the first year. The second year I would add 
3 feet inside and 3 out, and at this rate annually till 
the allotted width is made up, going back to the points 



20 



YOUNG VINES FOU PLANTING. 



of the roots at every such addition, and raising them 
carefully into the newly-added soil. In this way the 
compost, instead of becoming sour from being trod 
upon, and watered while as yet no roots are in it, 
will be added just as the roots are ready for it ; and 
every gardener knows with what gusto vine-roots 
rush into fresh turfy loam as compared with that 
which is sodden and livery; and it is well known, also, 
that soil gets more readily into this state when it is 
much in excess of the requirements of the plants that 
grow in it ; and it is frequently more convenient, where 
soil and labour are scarce, to make the borders in this 
way, than to have so much to do at once. 

YOUNG VINES FOE PLANTING. 

There are various opinions as to the best way of 
preparing young vines for planting. I have used ' 
plants from layers ; from eyes, two, three, and even 
four years old ; from eyes, one year old ; and from 
eyes struck the year they were planted ; and have 
found them all succeed, but would give a decided pre- 
ference to the two latter; and especially to good, 
sound, well-ripened vines one year old from eyes, 
either home-grown or procured from some respectable 
nurseryman, who is careful about their names being 
correct — who does not grow them in bottom heat, and 
as thick as they can stand, in dark houses, which is 
sometimes done. They may be struck in bottom heat; 
but after they are shifted into the pot in which they 
are to be sold, they should have no bottom heat exceed- 
ing the atmospheric temperature of the house they are 
grown in ; for I have invariably observed that the soft 
forced roots vines make in bottom heat, such as they 



YOUNG VINES FOE PLANTING. 



21 



receive wlieii plunged in hot tan, die off during the 
winter, and are of no service to the plants when planted 
the following spring ; and though the canes, in conse- 
quence of being forced on in this way, may look better 
than those grown without bottom heat, they are not so 
in reality. Far better have a well-ripened though 
smaller cane, with a pot full of hard, fibry, active roots, 
that will survive the winter, and come early into action 
in the spring. My objection to the plants being 
crowded in dark houses, as they are often to be seen, 
is, that many of them get no direct light from the sun 
on their foliage; and, though they may make good- 
sized canes, cannot be properly ripened, and become 
fit foundations for healthy fruitful vines. When vines 
are thus crowded during their season of growth, and 
are set outdoors, perhaps against a wall or hedge, to 
stand till sold, they are sure to receive permanent 
injury from even a moderate degree cf frost, such as 
would not injure well-ripened canes. As a rule, it is 
injudicious to expose young or old vines, ripened in 
this country, to more than 1 0° of frost at any time. 

When the vines are to be struck from eyes, I have 
found it best to select the eyes from well-ripened wood, 
from a house where the grapes have been cut in June 
or July. I cut the wood right across, about half an 
inch on each side of the eye, and then take a small 
slice off the side of it, longitudinally, opposite the eye, 
making the cuts as clean as possible. I then have 
4-inch pots filled with light turfy loam, and a small 
portion of thoroughly decayed leaf-mould. When the 
pot is filled with this soil, I make a hole that would 
contain a walnut in the centre of it, which I fill up 
with fine white sand, and in the centre of the sand the 
eye is deposited, when a little of the compost is placed 



22 



YOUNG VINES FOR PLANTING. 



over it, and the wliole receives a watering. I have 
found that cuttings form callas sooner in sand than 
in loam, and throw out more roots also. When thus 
potted in January, they may for a time stand in any 
convenient corner of a peach-house or vinery just started. 
By the 1st of February they should be plunged in tan, 
or some other medium affording a bottom heat of 90°, 
and placed as near the glass as possible. With an at- 
mospheric temperature of 55° at night, rising to 70° by 
day, the buds will soon appear above the soil. Contem- 
poraneously with the development of leaves, roots will 
be emitted all round the calloused edges of the bud into 
the soil. At this stage see that they have what water 
they require to keep the soil moderately moist ; and to 
guard against the formation of what I will term strong 
bottom-heat roots, give the pots a shake with the hand, 
so as to leave a cavity all round them, from which any 
excess of heat may escape. When the plants have four 
leaves developed, raise them out of the plunging 
material they are in ; and though they will not make, 
such a rapid growth as if left in the bottom heat, they 
will make a much safer one. The pots by this time 
will be getting pretty full of roots ; but on no account 
shift the plants into larger pots till they have begun to 
grow afresh after the stand they make, when the available 
nutriment in the bud is exhausted, and before the young 
roots and newly developed leaves have begun to supply 
more. If shifted before this second growth begins, 
they frequently stand still for a month, and often end 
in prematm^e ripening at the neck, and refusing to start 
into a healthy second growth at all. 

The size of pot they should be shifted into depends 
on what they are intended for. If for planting out, 
an 8 -inch pot is sufficient ; if for fruiting in pots the 



YOUNG VINES FOR PLANTING. 



23 



following season, the size should not be less than 8 
inches or more than 18 inches. I have found a com- 
post the same as that recommended for the borders 
answer admirably for vines in pots. When potted, 
they should for a few days be shaded, as the roots must 
suffer more or less in the process, and are not prepared 
to supply the foliage with the needful sap to resist the 
demands made upon it by a powerful sun. In March 
or April the temperature and general treatment as to 
airing should be the same as what will be recommended 
for the first year they are planted out in the border. 
They must never be allowed to flag for want of water ; 
give liquid manure once a-week. Whether vines are 
intended for fruiting in pots, or planting out the 
following season, the laterals, as they appear, should 
be stopped at one joint. These laterals will break 
again, and should be pinched, so as to leave another 
joint. When such young vines have their pots full 
of roots, and attained the height of 6 feet, we have 
frequently cut them back to one foot, and found they 
made finer canes than those not so cut back. The 
best position for such vines to grow in is in the full 
blaze of the sun. I have grown them trained up un- 
der the rafters of a pine-pit, and found them prove 
very fruitful, and also against the back wall of a pine- 
stove ; but they will do well in any situation where 
they can have vinery or pine-stove heat, be regularly 
watered, have the full influence of the sun, and be kept 
free from red-spider. When the canes become brown, 
and all the symptoms of ripening show themselves, the 
whole of the lateral branches may be cut off", care being 
taken not to injure the leaves that spring from the 
main stem, as their office is to fill out the buds that 
are to show the young bunches of fruit next season. 



24 



SEASON FOR PLANTING VINES. 



When fairly ripened — say in September — and the leaves 
are getting an autumn tint, they may be removed and 
nailed up against a wall, provision being made that 
they do not suffer from want of water. From this 
position they should, on the approach of frost, be re- 
moved to an airy shed, peach -house at rest, or some 
other shelter, where they can be kept cool, and at the 
same time protected from severe frost. Thus prepared, 
they are fit either for fruiting in the pots they are in, 
or for planting out in a border. If wanted for the 
former purpose, they may be cut back to 5 feet, inclu- 
ding pot. Their roots should never be allowed to get 
dry during their season of rest, as is sometimes the 
case, nor should they have much water. 

SEASON FOR PLANTING VINES. 

I have planted vines at various seasons, from the 1st 
of March till the beginning of July, and have found 
them all succeed well. The time of planting has often 
to be determined by circumstances. For my own part, 
I think a mean betwixt the dates I have named the 
most suitable — say the beginning of April. I will 
therefore suppose that at this date the soil has been 
wheeled into the house during dry weather, and care- 
fully and equally levelled to the required height, 
making allowance for the subsiding that is sure to 
take place in the case of soil containing so much organic 
matter. This allowance should not be less than 6 
inches. Say then, that, before the vines are planted, 
the soil is exactly to the level that is desired when 
the border has settled down, there will thus be a mar- 
gin left for 6 inches of soil to be laid on during the 
process of planting. 



[ 25 ] 



VAKIOUS WAYS OF PLANTING VINES. 

"VA^iile I have planted vines in nearly every possible 
way, and have found them all succeed well, at the same 
time there are some methods preferable to others, and 
I can strongly recommend the following, from my own 
experience of it. It is probably in its details new, but 
it only requires to be described to commend itself to all 
who have any knowledge of such matters. I had a 
large house to plant, chiefly with Muscats, in April 1864. 
I had a stock of one-year-old plants in 8 -inch pots by 
me; I cut the rods back to 4 feet in February, and 
allowed them to stand in a cold peach-house till the 
13th of April, when the border was ready for their 
being planted ; I shook all the earth from their roots, 
and spread them out on the soil of the border, one vine 
to each rafter, and 6 feet apart, covered the roots with 
6 inches of soil, and gave the whole a good watering 
with water at a temperature of 150°, and covered the 
surface with an inch of dry soil, to prevent, to some 
extent, the escape of the heat communicated to the 
border by the warm water. The vines were just burst- 
ing their buds when planted, and instead of adopting 
the usual practice of stopping, or rubbing off all the 
buds but one or two, I allowed all to grow, and tied 
them carefully to the wires ; by this means I had in 
some instances ten rods to one vine, all of which, during 
the season, ran to the top of the house, and partly down 
the back wall, a distance of 30 feet, and many of these 
rods were as strong as ever I had previously seen a 
single rod from a vine the first year it was planted. In 
January 1865, when they were cut down, the whole 



26 



VARIOUS WAYS OF PLANTING VINES. 



house was a perfect thicket of wood. I cut back all 
these vines to within a foot of the front sashes, and 
trained up two rods from each the following season, 
fruiting them in 1866 ; and I need not tell those who 
know that a plant makes roots in proportion to its 
leaves, that vines treated as I have described had an 
enormous excess of roots formed in the border, as com- 
pared with others treated on the one rod and pinching 
system, and that the bearing-rods they made were in 
proportion to the extent and vigour of their roots in the 
soil. I measured one of them in December that, when 
planted in April, was not thicker than a writing-quill, 
and I found that it was 3^ inches in circumference, and 
had ten rods perfectly ripe to the top of the rafters, 
a distance of 21 feet. If, instead of permanent vigour 
and productiveness, an immediate return were the object 
aimed at, I have no hesitation in saying that such a 
vine would have yielded 50 lb. of grapes the following 
autumn. 

In planting vines some advocate the laying of a 
considerable length of the stem in the soil ; I do not. 
I think it an evil, and that the vigour and extent of 
roots that a vine will make, depend, not on the length 
of stem laid in the soil, but on the spread of healthy 
foliage it can get fairly exposed to light and air. I 
have planted others in the following way : I cut back 
the plants to within one inch of the surface of the soil 
in the pot, allowed them to break and grow a yard of 
young wood, and then planted them so as to lay an 
inch of the young wood in the soil, when a tuft of roots 
starts from the junction of the old and new growths ; 
but when there is any danger of fungi being in the soil, 
this plan should not be adopted. In the case of plant- 
ing young vines struck from eyes the same year, the 



VARIOUS WAYS OF PLANTING VINES. 27 



roots can sometimes be disentangled and laid out suffi- 
ciently, without reducing the ball entirely ; and when 
this can be done, it is best to let it be so, as, by that 
means, less of a check is given to the plant. In 1858 
I planted a vinery on the 15th of May. This house is 
110 feet long. I prepared 75 vines for it in the follow- 
ing manner : I had as many pieces of thin turf cut as 
there were vines. The turf was in pieces 2 feet long 
and 18 inches broad. I laid five or six pieces of hazel 
rods longitudinally under each turf, and across their 
ends I tied another piece with bits of wire, thus forming 
sort of turf-trays. On these I laid 2 inches of soil; and 
after shaking out the vines, and pruning, and in some 
instances washing their roots, I laid them out on the 
surface of the soil, from one end of the turf, like the 
extended fingers of the hand, covering up with a layer 
of 3 inches of sharp soil. I placed them all, as close 
as the trays would admit, in the pit of an intermediate 
house, where they had a night temperature of 55°, and 
65° to 70° during the day from sun-heat; tied each to 
a stake, gave the whole a good watering, and covered 
all the surface with moss. This was done in March, 
and when they were planted in May the whole soil was 
a mass of fine healthy roots. We removed one at a 
time, and planted them with care. They gave no indi- 
cations of having received the slightest check. Twenty- 
four of these were Lady Downes and West's St Peter's. 
They were put one to each rafter, to form the per- 
manent vines for the house. The others were chiefly 
Hamburgs, to be considered temporary, in as far as 
they were to bear a crop the next year, and then to be 
removed. One set of the latter was planted, one in 
the centre of each light, close to the front ; the other 
set along the centre of the house. Their progress was 



28 



VINES FIRST YEAR AFTER PLANTING. 



all that could be desired ; and the following year, 1859, 
the house produced over 400 bunches of grapes, with- 
out taking one from the permanent vines. The super- 
numeraries in the centre row were removed after the 
first crop, but some of those in the front row still 
remain. I may remark that out of this house we cut 
black Hamburg grapes in August, and Lady Downes 
seedling grapes, perfectly plump and good, till April 
every year. 

TREATMENT OF VINES FIRST YEAR AFTER PLANTING. 

Where the ultimate object is to have vines brought 
as early as possible to a state that will bear what is 
termed early forcing — that is, to produce ripe grapes, 
say, in March or April — they should be planted in 
February, without waiting till they make young wood 
in the pots, and started with a night temperature of 
from 35° to 50°, rising with sun-heat 15° higher. Let 
the atmosphere of the house be kept moist by any. of 
the appliances for that end, and let the canes be 
syringed twice daily with tepid water till the buds 
burst, after which water in any other form than that 
of vapour should never touch them, unless, as sometimes 
happens in very dry summers, like that of 1868, the^ 
red-spider is more than usually prevalent, when it may 
be necessary to use the syringe, as directed under the 
head of Eed-Spider." 

In the case of vines that are to be the permanent 
ones, every lateral and leaf they produce should be 
allowed to grow the first season ; by this means a mass 
of roots will be formed in the border, that in their turn 
Avill send up fine strong friiiting-canes the second year. 
Those that are only the temporary ones, and that are 



THE SECOND YEAR's TREATMENT. 29 

to be fruited the second year, must have tlieir laterals 
stopped at one leaf, and tlieir leading shoots also 
stopped when they have grown 12 feet or so. This 
will plump their fruit-buds, and prepare them for 
fruiting the second year. As the season advances, and 
they get foliage developed, the temperature should 
rise, till in May it has reached 70° by fire-heat at 
night, and it may be run up with sun to 85° or 90°. In 
giving air, let it be at the top of the house in the first 
part of the day ; then, as the heat from the sun in- 
creases, admit a little at the front, but with great care 
in cold weather where there are no means such as I 
have previously described for heating it. As the season 
advances, say in August, give abundance of air in all 
directions. This will help to make the wood hard and 
brown ; but be careful of the foliage till it decays 
naturally. The diseases and attacks from insects, to 
which vines are liable, as well as the best means of 
preventing their ravages, will be treated of in subse- 
quent chapters. 

THE SECOND YEAR's TREATMENT. 

This begins with the cutting back of the vines, say 
in December ; and in the case of those that are not to 
bear fruit, they may be cut to within 3 feet of the 
bottom of the rafter, where only one rod is to be grown 
from each vine ; where two or more rods are to be 
grown from one, cut them to within 18 inches of the soil; 
those that are to fruit the second year may be left 8 
feet long, and be allowed to bear eight bunches each, 
supposing them to have made canes H inches in cir- 
cumference, and that the wood is well ripened and short 
jointed, with the buds or eyes prominent. This done, 



30 



THE SECOND YEAr's TREATMENT. 



the whole wood and glass of the house inside should 
have a thorough good washing, and the canes should 
be washed with soap and water with a brush, and 
painted over with a mixture composed of 2 oz. soft 
soap, 2 oz. flowers of sulphur, and 1 gill tobacco-water, 
to 2 quarts of water ; stir the whole together, and add 
clay sufficient to give it the consistency of paint, which 
will destroy any larvae of red-spider or other insects 
that may be left on them ; but where no spiders have 
been on the vines during the summer, this painting may 
be dispensed with ; and it never should be applied 
after the buds begin to swell, as it will injure them. 
When painted, let them be tied to the wires, and give 
the surface of the border a slight prick over with a fork, 
but beware of going so deep as to injure the roots. 
Cover the surface of the border with horse-droppings 
to the depth of 2 inches when they can be had : water- 
ing over them enriches the border and feeds the roots, 
preventing rapid radiation at same time. On the 1st 
of February they may have fire-heat applied, beginning 
as in the first year in regard to moisture and syringing. 
As soon as the buds break, increase the heat at night to 
60°, and by the time they have got some part of their 
foliage fairly expanded, increase it 5° more, running up 
10° or 15° above this with sun-heat. The atmosphere 
should be kept sufficiently moist by sprinkling the 
border and paths, if there is no steam-tray on the 
pipes ; but avoid syringing the pipes when they are 
hot, as this raises a great cloud of steam for a few 
minutes, doing more harm than good. What the vine 
requires for its growth, with healthy foliage of good 
texture, is an atmosphere not arid, but certainly not 
steaming like that of a cucumber-frame. This year, 
the laterals that form on the young rods must be 



THE SECOND YEAR's TREATMENT. 



31 



pinched at two leaves from the leading stems, and 
those laterals that start on the 3 feet that was left of 
last year's rod must have any bunches they show picked 
off, with the exception of one or two that may be left 
to prove the variety and be stopped, say at the fifth 
joint, and tied ^ the wires. AVhen the leading shoot 
has gone half up the rafter, it may be stopped, and 
then allowed to start again, and not stopped more till 
the autumn pruning. The laterals below the middle 
of the house must also be stopped every time they start 
beyond one joint. Vines started as early as these have 
been will be nearly ripe by the end of July, and at that 
date the laterals on the young wood that is to bear 
fruit the following year should be cut off close to the 
base of the stalk of the leaf that springs from the lead- 
ing rod; but this leaf itself should be carefully pre- 
served, as it will still be of service in laying up sap to 
plump the fruit-bud for next year. The house may 
now have abundance of air night and day, till the 
leaves become yellow and fall off in September, when 
the laterals on the previous year's wood may be cut 
back to an eye that will be found at the base of the 
said lateral, where it springs from the parent stem. 
The leaves should all be cleared off now, the rods cut 
back to 8 feet, and any loose bark on the previous 
year's wood removed ; after which give them a good 
wash with tepid water and a little soap, and then paint 
with the same mixture as recommended for the previ- 
ous year, if spider has made its appearance to the vines 
for the season. At this season every part of the 
interior walls of the vinery should be washed with hot 
lime white-wash, with a little sulphur stirred in it, and 
all the woodwork and glass cleaned thoroughly with 
soap and water, well dashed into every corner. 



[ 32 ] 



THE FEUITING YEAR. 

Vines prepared as has been recommended may be 
started on the 1st of January the third year. My 
practice with vines of this description is to collect as 
many oak leaves as will make a heap 3 feet deep on 
the vinery floor, where they soon become hot and give 
off a fine genial heat, which carries with it all the 
moisture required. Young vines, especially if very 
strong, are prone to start strong shoots at their points 
that will monopolise all the rising sap, and leave the 
others unsupplied. To prevent this as much as pos- 
sible, sling the points of the vines down, so that they 
hang on a level with the part that is tied to the first 
or second wire, till all the eyes have made 3 inches of 
wood, when they may be fixed. If there are means of 
giving bottom heat, it should be applied so as to raise 
the temperature of the border where the roots are to 
60°. If this can be done, the heat from the hot leaves 
may be supplemented by the heating apparatus, so as 
to keep the atmosphere of the house at 50° by night, 
and 55° by day, rising 10° by sun-heat. With these 
appliances, and syringing with tepid water daily, the 
vines will soon begin to burst their buds ; and as soon 
as it can be observed that there are two shoots starting 
from one eye, the weakest should at once be rubbed off 
with the hand, and syringing discontinued. In its 
stead a small portion of the hot leaves may be forked 
over daily ; this will afford all the atmospheric moisture 
necessary till after the fruit is set. The moment the 
bunches can be distinguished, the heat should be raised 
5° at night and the same during the day ; and by the 



THE FRUITING YEAR. 



33 



time the shoots have run out 3 inches, 5° more ; and 
by a daily rise from this point, till, in the case of 
Hamburg's, and the free-setting class, it reaches 70° at 
night, when the grapes are in bloom. Muscats set 
best at 75° at night, and 80° of fire-heat during the 
day, and up to 90° with sun. My own practice is to 
take off all the bunches that show on a shoot but one, 
and to stop the lateral on which it grows two leaves or 
joints beyond the bunch, and to pinch all sub-laterals 
at the first joint, and to repinch them without leaving 
an additional joint. I consider this gives ample foliage 
for perfecting the fruit and keeping up the vigour of 
the vine ; and it will be found to be as much as can be 
properly exposed to light, supposing the leading stems 
of the vines to be 2-^ feet (3 feet is not too much) apart, 
which is as close as ever they should be. When the 
grapes are set, it is necessary to determine the number 
of bunches to be left on such vines. My own practice 
is to leave eight bunches on each rod, supposing such 
bunches to average, when ripe, 1^ lb. each : of course 
the largest and best bunches ought to be left, and as 
equally all over the house as possible. None should, 
however, be left on the leading shoot, which should not 
be stopped till it reaches to the top of the house, this 
year. 

It is difficult to give precise directions for thinning 
the berries ; it must, however, be done as early as pos- 
sible, after the grapes are set, in the case of the free 
setters ; but in the case of Muscats it is best to wait 
tni it becomes obvious which of the berries are properly 
set and taking the lead. Care must be taken not to 
injure the berries that are left in any way, either by 
touching them with the hand or scissors. Experience 
alone can teach how thin they should be ; they should 

c 



34 



THE FRUITING YEAR. 



be so thin that every berry is able to swell perfectly 
without being jammed, and at the same time the bunch 
should be so firm that, when cut and laid in a horizontal 
position on the dish, it preserves the same shape as 
when hanging vertically from the branch. This I con- 
sider the perfection of thinning, and can only be attained 
by experience and a knowledge of the size of the vari- 
ous sorts of grapes, as well as of given vines of the same 
sort. 

I consider 70° of fire-heat sufficient for grapes as a 
night temperature, except for Muscats when in bloom. 
I may here remark, that in March 1867 1 had a house of 
this vine in bloom, and during the whole month the sun 
was only visible for about three hours, with rain nearly 
every day. I kept the fire-heat 75° by night and 85° 
by day, and every bunch in the house set like Ham- 
burgs. No moisture was given, while they were in 
bloom, in. any form ; and at that stage, if a bunch 
received a shake in any way, a complete cloud of pollen 
flew from it. This is the whole secret of setting Mus- 
cats. When they are set, however, I let them fall back 
to 70° at night, and give a steady but not excessive 
moisture to the air, letting them rise with air on to 
90° during the day with sun-heat. I make it a rule, 
except during severe frost, to keep the back ventilators 
open an inch, and the front ones half an inch during the 
night. This gives a supply of fresh air, and keeps the 
foliage healthy and of good substance, and more able to 
resist the scorching: effects of the sun when it makes its 
appearance. On the other hand, a thin, almost trans- 
parent foliage, grown in a close, over-moist atmosphere, 
though it may have expanded to a large size, gets 
brown and destroyed by a few days of bright sunshine 
in May. 



THE FRUITING YEAR. 



35 



With regard to watering the inside border I have 
as yet said nothing, and will now remark that, if the 
bottom drainage is good, it may get a thorough soak- 
ing of soft tepid water when the vines are started, 
another after the grapes are set, a third when they are 
taking their second swelling, and a fourth when they 
begin to colour ; the three latter may be liquid manure. 
These should be no surface waterings, but thorough 
drenchings ; and if the season is very dry, like that of 
1868, the borders inside and out should be mulched 
with rotten dung and receive several extra waterings ; 
unless this is attended to, where the soil is light and 
gravelly, red spider is sure to injure the vines. In no 
case tread on the border when it is newly watered. 
I ought to have remarked that the leaves placed on 
the floor of the vinery may be removed as soon as the 
grapes are set, and before the second watering. The 
moment the first berry in the house begins to colour, 
the supply of air should be more liberal both by night 
and day, and the moisture less, where high flavour is 
aimed at. When the grapes are all cut, it is too often 
the case that the vines no longer receive that attention 
which they ought till their foliage ripens and falls off 
in the autumn. Immediately after the grapes are cut, 
the vines should get a good syringing with tepid water 
to wash ofl" any spider that may be on their foliage, or 
any dust that may have settled on it. The border 
should have water enough to keep it moist — the inside 
border, I mean ; for it rarely occurs that an outside 
vine-border requires water supplied artificially. In very 
hot summers a mulching of short dung will keep it 
sufficiently moist. All second growths the vines may 
make should be pinched ofl" at once. If this matter is 
not attended to, and these after-growths are allowed to 



36 



PRUNING VINES. 



go on, tlie vines, instead of going to rest as they ought, 
will make a sort of supplementary season's growth, and 
will assert their right to rest at the period when they 
should be starting into growth. Many failures in early 
forcing may be traced to want of attention to this ap- 
parently trifling cause. 

PRUNING VINES. 

As will be seen by a reference to fig. 6, the only bud 
left to produce fruit the following season is the one at 
the base of the lateral shoot ; and I prefer a pair of 
pruning-scissors to a knife for the operation of pruning. 
Those I use have a sort of back-action, and cut as 
Fig. 6. clean as a knife. My objection 

to the knife is that, unless it is 
used with care, the half-inch of 
wood left beyond the bud is 
often split by its action, and the 
bud sufiers in consequence ; but 
this is a matter that care can 
easily avoid. 

When vines are vigorous they 
not unfrequently bleed copiously 
when forcing commences, though 
they may have been pruned 
months before. This is a clear- 
ly recognised evil, and many 
compositions have been recom- 
mended for preventing bleed- 
ing. Nearly all these I have tried, but none of them 
answered the purpose. I have now discovered a styptic 
which is so perfectly successful that I can, by its use, 
prune a house of vines in March, dress the wounds with 




GEAFTING AND INARCHING VINES. 37 



it, and begin forcing the next day, without the loss 
of a drop of sap. It is manufactured by John Young 
& Son, Dalkeith, and sold by all seedsmen. 

Though the young wood be regularly cut back to one 
eye, in the course of years the spurs will become long 
and unsightly ; and the best way to remedy this is to 
cut down a rod annually, beginning at one end of the 
house, running up a young rod in its stead till all have 
been renewed. By continuing this practice, the length 
or size of the spurs will never become an objection to 
the system. When vines have been trained on the old 
long-spur system, they can readily be converted to the 
one I recommend, by the same means as that for 
getting rid of the old spurs of the short-spur system ; 
and in order that the transition should interfere as little 
as possible with the supply of grapes, a few young rods 
can be run up annually till the whole wood in the house 
gets renewed. 

GRAFTING AND INARCHING VINES. 

When it is considered desirable to increase the 
varieties of vines in a house, the simplest way of doing 
so is either to graft or inarch them. For my own part 
I prefer the latter method ; and by putting young wood 
to young wood, all that is necessary is to bring the 
vines to be united into a convenient position to each 
other, and to take a slice with a sharp knife off each, 
nearly half through their diameter, the wounds to be 
the same length ; then bring their wounds together, so 
that at least two of their sides or lips are in close con- 
tact ; then put a distinct tie above the wounds, and one 
below them, to enable you to undo the tie that is to 
hold the wounds together betwixt these two at any 



38 FEUITING GRAPE VINES IN POTS. 

time, without the risk of destroying the embryo union 
that may be taking place ; then with soft matting 
thoroughly and rather firmly bandage the whole length 
of the wounds. The vines will swell as they grow, and 
this bandage will have to be slackened occasionally, 
when the importance of the two ties first referred to 
will appear. The growth of the stock on which the 
new vine is inarched may be stopped at three joints 
past its point of junction with the new one. In nine 
out of ten cases the union should be complete in a 
month, when the bandage may be taken off, but the 
ties above and below retained for some time afterwards. 
When the young vine shows by its vigorous gro^i^h 
that it is deriving supplies of sap from its new parent, 
its connection with its own roots may be half severed, 
and by the end of the season cut off entirely. I have 
inarched young wood on to old, and old wood on old, 
with perfect success also. I do not consider grafting 
so certain a plan as inarching in the manner I have 
described; and, besides, it leads to a good deal of bleed- 
ing when the graft is put on just as the old parent vine 
is started into growth. This bleeding can, however, be 
prevented by covering the junctions of scion and stock 
with the styptic. 

FRUITING GRAPE VINES IN POTS. 

As a rule, I do not consider this a profitable way of 
growing grapes, as compared with permanent vines 
planted in borders; at the same time, there are various 
exceptional cases where fruit can only be had so — as, 
for instance, the first year a vinery is erected, if the 
proprietor procures not only a set of vines to plant in 
the borders, but another set to fruit in pots, he may in 



FRUITING CtRAPE VINES IN POTS. 



39 



this way have a partial crop of grapes in his house the 
first season. Or when a gardener has to root out and 
renew a vinery, and at the same time supply grapes, he 
can have recourse to vine pots. In this way I have 
grown two hundred bunches of grapes, in a house 30 
feet long and 13 feet wide, the year I planted it with 
young vines. Sometimes grapes can also be grown in 
pots over the paths at the back of pine-stoves, and in 
similar positions, where borders are not available for 
vines to grow in. 

It is also a very suitable way for amateurs who may 
have a small greenhouse near a town residence, where 
a vine -border cannot be made. They can annually 
purchase half-a-dozen fruiting \dnes, and train them up 
the rafters of their greenhouse, where they will bear 
fruit, and at the same time afford a grateful shade to 
such plants as balsams, cockscombs, achimenes, &c. 
For the encouragement of such I may mention that, 
at the June Show of the Eoyal Horticultural Society 
of London in 1864, a medical gentleman, in Mount 
Street, Grrosvenor Square, London, got a prize for black 
Hamburg grapes grown on the roof of his residence in 
a small greenhouse. 

Vines suitable for pot culture should be well ripened, 
strong canes either one or two year old, in pots not less 
than 10 inches in diameter, having been grown and 
ripened in the full blaze of the sun. A cane 5 feet 
long is enough for fruit, therefore they may be cut to 
that length. I have found it a good plan to knock the 
bottoms out of the pots, and set them either on some 
rich soil in another pot or in a pit, into which they 
root vigorously and swell double the fruit they would 
do confined to their own pots. Give liquid manure 
occasionally. 



40 



mUITING GRAPE VINES IN POTS. 



Vines in pots are frequently grown for dinner-table 
decoration ; but I have seldom seen them look natural 

and well, as they are generally 
grown in large pots, and coiled 
round stakes. Fig. 7 is an illus- 
tration of the way I have grown 
them in Dalkeith gardens for 
table decoration. When the vines 
are placed in heat, a small pot 
is slipped over the rod, and in 
this pot a neatly -made stake, 
painted green, is placed, and the 
soil filled in round it. Through 
this stake a set of strong wires 
are run at right angles with each 
other, to which the branches of 
the vine are tied, as shown. 
The small pot gets filled with 
roots by the time the grapes 
are ripe, when it may be detached from the large pot, 
and can be set in a small vase on the table, where the 
tree-like plant with fine pendulous bunches of grapes 
looks all that can be desired. I have had one of these 
vines fourteen days in the fruit-room, with nothing to 
support it but a small pot, without a flagged leaf, 
and the bunches as plump as when detached from the 
original roots in the large pot. 

For growing for table in pots the black Hamburg is 
by far the best. The vine is a sure bearer, has fine 
shapely foliage, and the fruit, being dark, contrasts 
beautifully with it. 



Fig. 7. 




[ 41 ] 



SELECTION OF VINES. 

For a person who has one vinery only, and who does 
not mean to force early, the following twelve vines will 
be found suitable, and, with ordinary good manage- 
ment, will give grapes for six months from the 1st of 
August : — 

3 Black Hamburg. 

1 Buckland's Sweetwater. 

1 Duchess of Buccleuch. 

1 Golden Champion. 

1 Black Alicante. 

1 West's St Peter's. 

3 Lady Downes Seedling. 

1 Burchardt's Prince. 

For early forcing the following are suitable : — 

4 Black Hamburg. 

2 Duchess of Buccleuch. 
1 Muscat Hamburg. 

1 Royal Muscadine. 
1 Grizzly Prontignan. 

1 White do. 

3 Muscat of Alexandria. 

For growing in heat to keep for winter use : — 

6 Tynningham Muscat. 

2 Kempsey Alicante. 

1 Burchardt's Prince. 

2 Lady Downes Seedling. 

For growing up the rafters of a greenhouse or 
orchardhouse where little or no artificial heat is avail- 
able, the most certain to succeed are : — 

Black Hamburg. 
Royal Muscadine. 



42 



RIVAL SYSTEMS OF VINE-CULTURE. 



TlLomson's Wliite Lady Dowiies. 
Black Prince. 
Black Cliainpion. 
Black Cluster. 
Buckland's Sweetwater. 
Groveard Sweetwater. 

To tliese, others might be added, but the selection 
given is sufficient for all ordinary purposes. 

Where there are plenty of vineries, I would recom- 
mend such grapes as the Frontignans and Muscats to 
be grown each in houses by themselves ; at the same 
time they will do quite well as classed in the lists I 
have given. 

RIVAL SYSTEMS OF VINE-CULTURE. 

While I am preparing the fifth edition of this work 
for the press, a keen controversy is being carried on in 
the horticultural journals as to the merits of what is 
designated the " extension system " of vine- culture, as 
compared with the " restrictive system," one section of 
writers maintaining that the proper mode of cultiva- 
tion, where long-continued vigour and fruitfulness are 
desired, is to allow one vine to develop and extend till 
it has filled the house with bearing-wood. Another 
section as confidently maintain that vines can be kept 
in perfect health and vigour sufficiently long for all 
practical purposes on the " restrictive system " of cul- 
ture — meaning by that a system which only supposes 
one or two bearing-rods to be trained from each vine, 
and where the method of pruning is what is called the 
close-cutting system, where the new wood is all cut 
back to one eye at the base of each lateral Thus a 
question of such importance is raised that I do not 



RIVAL SYSTEMS OF VINE-CULTURE. 



43 



feel justified in passing it by, apart from wliicli I have 
been asked my opinion of the merits of the two sys- 
tems by numerous correspondents. These circumstances 
combined have determined me to devote a chapter to 
discussing the subject, believing, as I do, that there is 
much truth in what is said by the advocates of both 
sides of the question, as there generally is when sensible 
men discuss questions of this character. I may here 
remark that the question is by no means a new one to 
me ; more than twenty years ago I frequently discussed 
it with the late Mr Peter Kay of Finchly. Theoreti- 
cally, it must at once be admitted that the one-vine 
or " extension " system stands on vantage-ground. No 
one can deny that a tree which is largely developed, 
with its roots ranging over what I may term an exten- 
sive pasture-field, is likely to maiutain its health and 
vigour for a much greater length of time than one that 
is^ by the force of circumstances restricted in its growth. 
But there are practical difficulties in the way of the 
general adoption of the former mode of culture. In 
the first place, all experience goes to prove that the 
vine is what may be termed a rambling rooter. If the 
border is not carefully made, and of such materials as 
to induce the formation of a numerous progeny of fine 
branching fibry roots, the width of any ordinary vine- 
border will soon be traversed by them. This takes 
place even when the " restrictive system " is adopted, 
and it will take place with infinitely greater rapidity 
under the other. To meet this difficulty the roots have 
been walled in ; but this only aggravates the evil, for 
the moment the roots touch the wall, they descend to 
the bottom of the border, where they are far from the 
genial influences of heat and air. 

Another objection brought against this system is, 



44 EIVAL SYSTEMS OF VINE-CULTURE. 

that one vine takes much, longer to furnish a house 
with fruit than a number do ; but this can be met by 
planting supernumeraries, to be removed as the per- 
manent one advances. 

A third objection is, that variety of grapes is desir- 
able in a vinery, and that this cannot be had where 
only one vine is grown. Grafting or inarching will meet 
this objection ; and it is well known that many delicate 
sorts of vines grow better on other than their own roots. 

Thus it appears that the only serious objection to the 
one-vine system is the difficulty of getting a border of 
sufficient scope for the roots of a vine of such propor- 
tions as will fill a good-sized vinery with fruit-bearing 
wood ; but where such can be had, I fully approve of 
the extension system," and will now proceed to give a 
detailed account of one of the best and most successful 
examples of it known to me, and with the origin of 
which I had some connection. 

In the year 1838 I became acquainted with the late 
Mr Peter Kay of Finchly, near London, and up to the 
date of his melancholy death I continued to discuss 
with him, verbally and by letter, every question that 
bore on the culture of the vine. He always maintained 
the great importance of what he called " carrying a 
large amount of foliage on the vine " as the only sure 
way of keeping up its stamina, and acted on this him- 
self. I used to reply, that practically it was not ex- 
pedient to allow more than two leaves to grow beyond 
the bunch. This, with the sub-laterals stopped at one 
leaf, I considered sufficient, and pointed to the exam- 
ple of the houses at Oakhill, near Barnet, then and for 
twenty years so ably managed by Mr Davis, who pro- 
duced splendid crops of grapes, ripe in March and 
April, for many years in succession from the same 



RIVAL SYSTEMS OF VINE-CULTURE. 



45 



vines, and whicli he pruned to one eye, and left only 
one leaf beyond the bunch. I thought the system I 
adopted, of leaving two leaves, sufficient ; Mr Kay 
thought otherwise, and left from four to five. Carry- 
ing his ideas still farther, he said he believed that 
better still would be the plan of planting only one 
vine in a large house. This I urged him to do, and 
in 1855 he built a span-roofed house 89 feet long, 16 
feet wide, and 9 feet 6 inches in height to the apex. 
In this house he planted a single black Hamburg vine 
in March 1856, the roots all outside, and the border 
prepared 89 feet in length by 15 broad. Beyond this 
border are the borders of other houses, giving it scope 
for its roots little if at all under a quarter of an acre. 
The vine is trained with a leading stem from the centre 
of the north-side wall up to the apex, and down to the 
south wall, for the house runs east and west. From 
this main stem five laterals are trained towards each 
end of the house — one at the apex, the others equidis- 
tant between the apex and the walls. The last time I 
saw it in company with Mr Kay was in 1862. I saw 
it again in 1864, when it had a full crop of excellent 
grapes, weighing, as I have since learned, 476 lb. In 
1865 it bore 400 lb. of grapes ; in 1866, three hundred 
bunches, some of them weighing 5 lb. It took seven 
years to furnish the house with bearing wood. The 
girth of the stem where it enters the house is at this 
date. May 1867, 14 inches. Mr Osborne, an old pupil 
of Mr Kay s, has ably carried out his preceptor's mode 
of managing this noble vine ; and I trust it may long 
remain in robust health, a fitting monument to the 
memory of one who had few equals as an enthusiastic 
cultivator of the vine, and one who stands alone as 
having built a large house and planted it with a single 



46 



RIVAL SYSTEMS OF VINE-CULTUEE. 



vine to test a theory wliich some writers of the present 
day are starting as a new one.'" 

Having tlins placed the " extension " or one-vine 
system before my reader in the light in which I have 
long viewed it, I will, as briefly as the subject will 
admit of, take a review of what is said against the 
"restrictive" or many -vine system. The opponents 
of this latter system of vine-culture take their key- 
note from Mr Cannell, nurseryman, AVoolwich, who, 
when gardener at Portnall Park, Avas so unsuccessful 
as a vine-cultivator that he has chronicled the death 
of all the vines he then had charge of, after passing 
through nine stages of decadence, which Mr Tillery 
of Welbeck has compared to Shakespeare's seven ages 
of man, and described in very good verse in the ' Not- 
tingham Guardian' of March 15, 1867. Mr Canneirs 
vines, we are bound to believe, died ; but I am quite 
certain he is in error when he attributes their death 
to the " restrictive " or one-rod system. I know many 
very old vines that have been cultivated on the " re- 
strictive system," and that have continued in perfect 
health for many years. At Oakhill, near London, Mr 
Dowding planted a number of vineries forty years ago. 
I became acquainted with them in 1837, and for twenty 
subsequent years Mr Davis, who succeeded Mr Dowd- 
ing, produced the most regular and finest crop of grapes 
in the kingdom from these same vines, yet they main- 
tained their health, vigour, and fruitfulness. They 
were planted one vine to each rafter, and the system 
of pruning was the " close-cutting " one, by which only 
one eye was left at the base of each lateral. 



* We have at this date, March 1869, learned from Mr Osborne that the 
girth of the stem of this fine vine is now 17 inches, and that it is in excellent 
health and vigour, promising a large crop of fruit. 



EIVAL SYSTEMS OF VINE-CULTURE. 



47 



There is a vine, referred to in tliis work, at Wrotliam 
Park, wliicli is eighty years old, and has all along 
been cultivated on the "restrictive system," for it 
only clothes two rafters ; yet I learn from Mr Edling- 
ton, who now has charge of it, that it is in as full 
health and vigour as any of the younger vines, and 
bears equally fine fruit, and has a stem 1 foot 7 inches 
in girth. True, the border it grows in has been once 
renewed in the time. In regard to this old vine I 
make the following extract from a letter from Mr 
Edlington just to hand. He writes : " The old Ham- 
burg produces fruit equal to the other and younger 
vines in the same house. Last year they were truly 
magnificent, surpassing all other grapes on the place." 

I might go on multiplying instances to prove that 
vines neither become unfruitful nor die ofi" in nine 
years, as Mr Cannell's did, because they are not allowed 
to extend the area of their foliage annually, but I think 
such unnecessary. The fact is, that the vine is a very 
docile plant ; and if its foliage is kept free from the 
attacks of insects — if over-cropping is avoided, and the 
wood well ripened — if the border is made of mode- 
rately good materials, and the drainage sufficient, — the 
vine will continue in health and vigour for fifty years 
under any of those systems of pruning and training 
that are practised by gardeners of intelligence, whether 
that be the "restrictive" and close-pruning system, or 
the "extension" and long- spur system. 

I therefore close this chapter as I began it, by say- 
ing that there is much truth on both sides of this 
question. 

Where it is necessary to have circumscribed borders, 
as is generally the case, I would plant a vine to every 
6 -feet run of a vinery, and grow two rods from each 



48 THE DISEASES VINES ARE SUBJECT TO. 

plant. This would give such vigour to the roots as 
would react on the branches in such a way as to 
yield both good bunches and berries, while at the 
same time a border 20 or 30 feet wide would afford 
them sustenance for many years. 

Where there is ample scope for the roots to run 
unchecked and uninjured for 150 or 200 feet, then by 
all means adopt the one-vine or "extension" system, 
inarching or grafting on to this patriarch all the 
varieties required. 

THE DISEASES VINES ARE SUBJECT TO. 

In the front rank of these stands the disease known to 
gardeners as "shanking." This great enemy to grape- 
growing makes its appearance just as the grapes are 
changing from their acid to their saccharine state, and 
it arrests the transformation at once, and the berry re- 
mains perfectly acid, and becomes shrivelled in a short 
time. All that the eye can detect in the case is, the 
decay of the little stem or shank of the berry ; and what 
appears strange, it more frequently attacks grapes that 
are not forced early than those that are. Many able 
physiologists have attempted to explain its cause and 
cure, though as yet with but little success ; and it is 
with diffidence that I enter on a path that has been trod 
by such men. I will attempt to point out, first, what 
I think its principal cause; — I say principal, because I 
consider that there may be several concurrent causes 
aiding the chief one, such as over-cropping, destruction 
of the foliage by red-spider, or any other cause ; and, 
in the second place, to point out what I think the most 
likely remedy. 

I will describe the circumstances under which 



THE DISEASES VINES ARE SUBJECT TO. 49 

shanking is most generally met with. The most 
frequent of these is when the roots of the vines have 
descended into a cold wet subsoil ; but it is also 
met with where the roots are not down in the sub- 
soil, but where they are growing vigorously, towards 
autumn especially, in a rich and what many would 
term well-made border, where they receive plenty of 
liquid manure, where the foliage in the house is fine, 
the wood strong, and the young roots, if sought for, 
will be found pushing along in the rich earth in 
September, like the points of a goose-quill. I have 
known the appearances I have now described to be 
all present where the border was paved under the roots 
with stone pavement, yet there was scarcely a bunch of 
grapes in the house that had a dozen unshanked berries 
on it. I must now describe what I consider took place 
in the case on hand. The vines made great, strong, 
young roots in this rich soil late in autumn ; they were 
not short, branching, fibry roots, but soft, like the roots 
of some bulb ; and by the time the action of the leaves 
had ceased, these roots were anything but ripe, and they 
all perished, during the winter rains, back to the old 
stem-roots from which they sprang. The vines, never- 
theless, have a given amount of stored-up sap in them, 
though they have lost their active roots, and they are 
pruned and started, say, the following February. While 
this stored-up sap lasts they grow vigorously enough, 
but a period arrives when it is exhausted ; and the new 
comes but slowly, for the old roots that remain are just 
beginning, through the action of the foliage, to start 
into life a fresh set of young ones that are able as yet 
to supply but little. This takes place when the berry 
is passing through the stoning period of its existence 
— always a crisis with fruit of any kind ; and the 

D 



50 THE DISEASES VINES ARE SUBJECT TO. 



consequence is, a tliorougli failure of tlie crop from 
shanking, either resulting directly from want of proper 
nourishment at this important period, or from some 
other hidden cause which springs from this want. 
The crop of fruit is lost as thus described, but the 
vines seem in good health, and they make strong roots 
towards autumn, again to share the fate of their pre- 
decessors ; and so the round goes on. 

The proper remedy for such a state of things — and 
I have never known it fail where over-cropping was 
avoided, and the necessary care bestowed on the vines 
in every other respect — is to raise the roots and remove 
the rich damp soil of the border, replacing it with the 
compost already recommended in this treatise, and re- 
laying the roots carefully in it. Let me add that, if 
the locality is a wet one, I would double the amount of 
burned clay and lime-rubbish in making up the com- 
post. The class of roots that will be formed in this 
relatively poorer border will differ widely from those 
formed in the richer one. They will be much more 
numerous, smaller, and woody, branching in every 
direction, permeating its whole mass. They will ripen 
before the autumn rain sets in, and in such dry, open, 
and light soil will survive the winter, and be ready for 
action early the following season. If it is objected that 
such a compost is too poor to produce heavy crops of 
grapes, I reply that it is easy, during the growing 
season, to give one or two good waterings with liquid 
manure. What is wanted is a host of healthy, hungry 
mouths. It is easy to feed them when they exist, but 
when they are dead and gone no feeding can avail ; for 
be it remarked, that if even the points of the young 
roots or spongelets are decayed, absorption of sap can- 
not take place to any extent till they are restored ; and 



RED SPIDER. 



61 



this, in a rich, cold, damp border, is not an early process 
with a vine. On this subject Dr Lindley remarks : 
— " It is not by the coarse old woody roots that the 
absorption of food is most energetically carried on, 
but by the youngest parts, and especially by the 
spongioles." 

I have thus described what I think the primary 
cause of shanking in grapes — namely, the destruction 
of the young roots in winter. I will now assign what 
I consider the reason why early-forced grapes are less 
subject to it than late. Early-forced vines have their 
roots formed earlier in the season than late ones. The 
" rest " of the plant and the ripening of the roots are 
thus more likely to be complete before the cold rains of 
winter set in ; and even in a rich border, more of the 
young roots survive than in the case of those of later- 
started vines ; though, under all circumstances as to 
time of forcing, the rich heavy border is very unsafe 
for supplying constant crops of good grapes. 

RED SPIDER. 

This small insect is perhaps the greatest pest the 
vine-grower has to contend with ; and as prevention 
is better than cure, the first step to be taken is to wash 
every part of the vinery, the wood and glass, with a 
brush, and warm water well dashed into every crevice, 
and the walls with a lime-wash made from hot shell- 
lime, with a little sulphur stirred into it. Let all loose 
bark be removed from the vines after they are pruned, 
scrub them well with soap and water and a brush, and 
give them a painting over with the mixture already 
recommended ; let the soil of the border inside the 
house be slightly forked, and give it a watering with 



52 



EED SPIDEE. 



water in which a little sulphur (say one ounce to two 
gallons) has been stirred, which will kill any insects or 
larvae that may have fallen on the soil. This done, 
and the vines kept in proper health, spider ought not 
to make its appearance till the grapes are stoning ; but 
watch for it constantly — do not wait till the leaves are 
becoming red from its effects. It will first show itself 
at the hottest part of the house ; and the moment it is 
seen, have the return-pipes painted with sulphur mixed 
with milk and water : repeat this painting of the pipes 
once a- week, and it will arrest the progress of this most 
troublesome of insects. Some recommend constant 
syringing as a preventive, but I have often observed 
that this cure was as bad as the disease, as far as the 
appearance of the grapes was concerned. I am there- 
fore averse to syringing vines with water while the 
grapes are on them, unless it can be had free from lime, 
chalk, or other matter in suspension, which forms a 
crust of lime or chalk, as the case may be, on the 
berries, and disfigures them very much. Circum- 
stances, however, will arise where it is difficult, if not 
impossible, to keep red spider in check by any other 
available means ; for during hot weather in summer 
the' pipes cannot be kept so hot as to impregnate the 
atmosphere of the house by the radiation of sulphur 
from their surface, and the syringe has to be called into 
action, in which case make a sand filter, and pass rain- 
water through it, in order to clear it of any particles of 
soot or white-lead off the houses it may contain. Make 
the water the same temperature as the atmosphere of 
the house, and syringe the vines carefully all over when 
the house is shut in the afternoon. If this is done every 
third day, red spider will make little progress. In the 
case of vines in the first and second years of their 



RED SPIDER. 



53 



growth, the syringe may be used with perfect safety, as 
there is no fruit to injure. Steaming, and an atmosphere 
highly charged with moisture, have also been recom- 
mended ; but, independently of the bad effects of such 
a climate on the vine itself, I do not believe moisture 
checks the progress of red spider, for I have seen it 
thrive perfectly on plants standing all summer in an 
aquatic tank, in a steaming atmosphere. Sulphur is 
a real specific for the pest, where it can be effectually 
applied from the surface of hot pipes. Injury to the 
fruit may be apprehended from sulphur put on the flow- 
pipes if they are made very hot. The constant evapo- 
ration of water, with guano stirred into it, from saucers 
or troughs placed on the hot pipes, has been found to 
act as a preventive against the attacks of red spider, and 
at the same time to conduce to the health of any class 
of plants, whether grown for fruit or flower. It charges 
the atmosphere of the house with ammonia to the 
extent of making it something like that of a dung-frame, 
in which it is well know^n that insects do not thrive, and 
all plants requiring heat do. Other sources of procur- 
ing a supply of ammonia will suggest themselves to the 
reader. The atmosphere of the house should, however, 
never be charged with it to the extent of affecting the 
eyes of a person, as that of an ill-kept stable does in 
hot weather, for fear of injury to the plants as Avell as 
to insects. Lengthened experience has satisfied me 
that red spider is much more troublesome where the soil 
is light and porous, and the rainfall small, than where 
the soil is strong loam and the climate moist ; and as 
a preventive wherever the former conditions exist, I 
advise that the borders outside be mulched during sum- 
mer with 6 inches in depth of manure, and if the sum- 
mer is anything like that of 1868, give it several good 



54 



EUST ON GRAPES. 



soakings of water. This will keep the foliage of the 
vines full of sap ; and, for some reason known to itself, 
red spider prefers foliage that is suffering for lack of 
moisture to that which is crisp and full of it. 

RUST ON GRAPES. 

This is a disease that makes its appearance on the 
berries in a few days after they are set ; every grape- 
grower is too familiar with it to make it necessary I 
should describe it. Some have said it is caused by 
handling the berries while thinning them ; others, by 
being rubbed with the hair of the thinner's head ; others, 
again, by cold currents of air. I am not prepared to 
say but that any or all of these causes will produce 
rust ; but I am certain that the most fertile source of 
it is the application of sulphur to the pipes or flue 
about the time the grapes come into bloom. I was led 
to suspect this some time ago, by observing that in 
houses where the foliage was affected with a sort of 
green warty excrescence on the back of the leaf — of 
which more hereafter — the very day sulphur was 
applied to the pipes, these green warts, if I may term 
them such, became black, and killed, to all appearance. 
Here, then, was a case where the sulphur was affecting 
organised vegetable matter. This led me to suspect it 
might be the cause of rust, in as far as it was as likely 
to be able to affect the young and tender skin of the 
embryo grape as that of the parts of the leaves referred 
to ; and I was confirmed in this belief by the following 
circumstances :— In a house of vines, where Ave also 
grew French beans and strawberries, red spider was 
very troublesome, and before the grapes came into 
bloom I had the pipes painted with sulphur. This 



MILDEW ON THE VINE. 



65 



house was the only one on the place where sulphur was 
used till after the grapes were set some time, and the 
only one where they had rust on them. This year 
(1862) I applied no sulphur to the pipes till the grapes 
were stoning, and they are perfectly free from rust; 
and as they have been treated in every other respect 
exactly the same as formerly, I have satisfied my own 
mind that sulphur, applied to hot pipes in a house 
where vines are in bloom, is sure to cause rust on the 
berries, especially in the case of such tender-skinned 
grapes as black Hamburgs.''" 

MILDEW ON THE VINE. 

Mildew, when it attacks the vine, is a most insidious 
and destructive disease. Its ravages in the vineyards 
of the Continent have been of the most serious char- 
acter, involving the ruin of thousands ; and in our own 
country, some twelve or fourteen years ago, hundreds of 
vineries had their crops destroyed by it. In Middlesex, 
where I then lived, this disease was almost universal, 
but I never had it except on one vine, and this one 
grew in the cold end of a fighouse, where it was shaded 
a good deal by trees. This house had but little heat 
applied to it by artificial means, and was the only one 
of seven houses in which we had vines, where their 
treatment and the situation of the house were such as 
to favour, according to my views, the development of 
the spores of the vine mildew. The house was in a 
damp, shady situation. The vines were never forced, 
but allowed to come on with the heat of the sun ; and 
the season when the disease made its appearance was 

* Further experience confirms the opinion expressed in this chapter about 
sulphur being the fertile source of rust. 



56 



MILDEW ON THE VINE. 



cold and wet. As soon as I observed it, I sprinkled 
sulphur on the flue, and began firing it, keeping a cur- 
rent of air as dry as possible in the house. I watched 
the stems and thread-like links of the parasite on 
the leaves and berries with a glass, and I found that 
the current o'f dry air and fumes of the sulphur caused 
them to shrivel up and die. The disease made no fur- 
ther progress, and I believe it will never attack vines 
that are grown in a proper climate. As to heat, moist- 
ure, and ventilation, many treat their vines so as to 
predispose them to it, or rather they bring about such 
a climate as the mildew will grow in. It is not uncom- 
mon for individuals to have some favourite day in June, 
perhaps, when they give up firing their vinery. They 
still continue the usual sprinkling with water, and shut 
up the house with a stagnant atmosphere, loaded with 
moisture ; and it often happens that cold nights reduce 
the temperature of the vinery so low that the vital 
energy of the vines is depressed, predisposing them to 
disease, while they are in a climate well adapted to the 
growth of fungi of any sort. To a careful attention to 
the keeping up the proper degree of heat during the 
whole forcing season, not too much moisture, and a 
constant circulation of fresh air, I attribute the ex- 
emption from vine mildew I have experienced when 
vineries not five hundred yards off" had their crops 
ruined by it. It has been supposed by some that the 
mildew merely makes its appearance as the conse- 
quence of a diseased condition of the tissues of the 
vine ; but this I hold to be a mistake. The spores 
of the parasite in question may exist in myriads on 
every inch of the vine's surface and do it no harm, 
unless the climate of the vinery is made to suit their 
development, when they spring into life as if by magic, 



WARTS ON THE BACK OF THE LEAF. 



57 



and arrest the growth of all they attack. In a hot and 
rather dry climate they never can do this, and in such 
the vine may be considered safe from their effects. 

WARTS ON THE BACK OF THE LEAF. 

This is a sort of conglomerate of little green warts 
that form on the lower surface of the leaf, as if the 
result of an extravasation of sap through its epidermis 
or skin. Some writers say this is not a disease. If it 
is not such, strictly speaking, it is at least organised 
matter in the wrong place ; and I am confident it seri- 
ously impedes the important functions of perspiration, 
digestion, and respiration ; so that if not in itself a 
disease, it leads to functional derangement, which is 
nearly the same thing. As has been remarked while 
treating of the effects of sulphur, these green warts are 
more easily affected by the particles thereof floating in 
the atmosphere of the vinery than any other portion of 
the vine, except the embryo berries. 

I can undertake to produce or prevent this disease — 
shall I call it 1 — at any time betwixt the first expansion 
of the foliage and the stoning of the fruit. A close, 
warm atmosphere, saturated with moisture, will pro- 
duce it ; whereas a free circulation of air, moderately 
charged with moisture, will prevent its appearance. I 
have seen instances where the leaves were so affected 
by it that they all cupped themselves up round the 
edges, the fruit did not swell to much more than half 
- its natural size, and the general progress of the vine 
was retarded. 



L 58 ] 



AIR-ROOTS ON THE VINE. 

Though, this cannot be called a disease, it is a state 
of things that is not desirable. It proceeds from one 
of two causes, or both combined. Either the atmo- 
sphere is kept too moist, or the border is too cold, and 
probably wet, for the natural roots to make progress in 
at the time ; and to supply the demands of a large 
expanse of foliage these roots are thrown out. 

If the natural roots were in a border that, in texture, 
temperature, and moisture, was congenial to their 
nature, and the atmosphere of the vinery what it ought 
to be, there would be no air-roots ; so that at least they 
are symptoms of an undesirable state of things, as I 
have already said. 

SCALDINa. 

I have used the above name for a disease that certain 
varieties of grapes, more especially Lady Downes and 
the Muscats, are subject to, just as they are finishing 
their stoning. It attacks individual berries in the 
bunches, and always during hot sunny weather. The 
berry becomes suddenly dimpled on one side, and in 
a few hours has the appearance of having been dipped 
in boiling water, after which it rapidly decays. In this 
way I have seen bunches, especially of Lady Downes, 
reduced to skeletons. The perfect remedy for this is, 
to give the vinery as much air as a common green- 
house during the heat of the day, the moment the 
disease begins to show itself, till all tendency to it is 
over, a period of not more than fourteen days, after 



STOCKS FOR TENDER VINES. 



59 



whicli the house may be aired as usual for a vinery. 
I observed from the complaints made in the horticul- 
tural press in the summer of 1864, that this disease 
was very prevalent — just as I would have expected 
during so hot a summer, and with, in too many cases, 
defective means of ventilation. 

STOCKS FOR TENDER VINES. 

Those who have paid most attention to the subject 
have come to the conclusion that many of the highest 
flavoured of our grapes, which are at the same time the 
most delicate and difficult to grow with success on their 
own roots, will one day be grown with perfect ease 
when we have discovered the proper stocks for them, 
and that late-ripening varieties will be got to ripen 
earlier when grafted on earlier stocks. I have not 
myself proved the correctness of the latter, but have 
read of instances of it, and, reasoning from analogy, 
am prepared to believe it. Of the former I had a strik- 
ing proof in the case of the Muscat Hamburg on the 
black Hamburg stock : on its own roots I have not 
grown it above 2 lb. weight ; while on the Hamburg 
stocks I have had it 5 lb. weight, with larger berries 
and much better finished in every way than on its own 
roots. I have proved the black Barbarosa to be a most 
unsuitable stock for the Bowood Muscat — so much so, 
that the fruit never ripened at all on it, while by its 
side the Bowood Muscat ripened perfectly on its own 
roots. The importance of this experiment lay in the 
proof it gave that a late stock procrastinated the ripen- 
ing of the variety grown on it ; from which one is led 
to infer that an early stock, like Sweetwater or Chassels 
Musque, would facilitate the ripening of late sorts in- 



60 



PACKING GEAPES. 



arched on them. Of the excellence of the black Ham- 
burg as a stock for such high-flavoured though delicate 
grapes as Muscat Hamburg, and the whole of the Fron- 
tignans, I have not the slightest doubt ; and I have 
during last summer inarched these sorts and many- 
others on it, and recommend others to do the same, 
feeling confident that success will be the result. 



PACKING GRAPES. 

There are many ways of packing grapes, though 
perhaps none of them perfectly successful in the pre- 
servation of the bloom where they have to be sent to a 
considerable distance by public conveyance. The method 
I practise myself is the following : — I have light deal 
boxes made, capable of containing 10 lb. of grapes. 
The boxes have a division in their centres ; they are 
thus in two compartments. I place a layer of fine 
paper -shavings in the box : I then wrap each bunch of 
grapes in a sheet of fine silver-paper and lay it on the 
shavings in the box, then a few shavings betwixt it and 
the next bunch, till the compartment, which holds four 
moderate-sized bunches, is filled, when all corners round 
the bunches are stuff'ed full of shavings, and a layer is 
laid on the top of all, so that when the lid is put on 
with screw-nails the bunches are subject to a sort of 
elastic pressure. This, without bruising them, keeps 
them from shifting about in the box. It is better to 
err on the side of packing them too firm than loose ; 
for, tossed about as the boxes are in railway trucks and 
vans, if they are not firm they sufier very much. The 
division in the box takes ofi" the weight of pressure one 
set of bunches would exercise on another. 



[ 61 ] 



KEEPING GRAPES AFTER THEY ARE RIPE. 

This' is a matter where care and attention can do 
much. I have this season (1862) kept Lady Downes 
seedling grapes hanging on the vine till May, in a house 
where we began cutting black Hamburgs in August. 
This house is 110 feet long, 11 feet high, and 11 feet 
wide, and has been referred to already as having been 
planted in 1858. It is a common lean-to house, built 
to serve the double purpose of growing figs on the 
back wall, a vine up each rafter and one half-way up 
the centre of each sash, the sashes being 5 feet wide. 
The ventilation is by an opening sash to the north on 
the top of the wall, and the front sashes open outwards 
in the usual way by lever and rod. The cost of this 
house, including boiler and two rows of 4 -inch pipe 
along the front, was under £200, and at Christmas last 
we had four hundred bunches of Lady Downes and 
West's St Peter s grapes hanging in it, representing a 
commercial value little short of its original cost. 

In order that grapes may keep well, it is necessary 
that they should be well ripened by the end of Sep- 
tember, and not grown in a wet border; nor should 
the internal atmosphere of the house be kept loaded 
with moisture. What is required in grapes to keep 
well is a firm, fleshy berry, not one full of water. The 
bunches should have the berries well thinned out, more 
so than in the case of grapes that are to be used 
shortly after they are ripe. Long tapering bunches 
keep better than broad-shouldered ones, as the berries 
in the centres of the latter are apt to damp ofi" and 
destroy the bunch before it is observed. As soon as 



62 KEEPING GRAPES AFTER THEY ARE RIPE. 

the grapes are thorouglily ripe, the night temperature 
should be lowered to 50° till the leaves fall off or ripen, 
when they should be removed carefully by hand from 
the vines. After this date the fire-heat should never 
exceed 45°, nor fall below 35° at night; and in damp 
foggy weather I keep the house carefully shut up 
for nights and days at a time. To give air during a 
damp foggy day is to fill the house with the very 
evil you wish to avoid — damp air. The surface of the 
internal border is allowed to get perfectly dry, and to 
remain so all winter, care being taken that as little 
sweeping or raking take place as possible, for by this 
means dust is raised, which settles on the bunches. 
Half the roots are in the outside border, and had no 
covering at all. 

Towards the close of February I cut about fifty 
bunches of the Lady Downes, detaching the branch on 
which the bunch grew, as when pruning the vine. I 
then sharpened the ends of the branches, and run some 
four or five of them with a bunch on each into the side 
of a mangold-wurzel laid on the shelf of the fruit-room, 
allowing the bunches to hang over the side of the shelf. 
In this way the grapes kept perfectly fresh till April. 
I left some fifteen bunches on one vine for experiment- 
ing upon, two of which are still hanging at this date, 
May 2. About the 15 th of April the sap began to rise 
in the vines, and some of the berries that were a little 
shrivelled suddenly got plump, while others that had 
shown no signs of shrivelling burst their skins, and the 
sap of the vine that had forced itself into them began 
to drip from them. It was tinged with colouring matter 
out of the berry, and had the taste of the berry. To 
stop this bursting of the berries, I made an incision in 
the lateral on which the bunch hung, betwixt it and the 



amateur's vinery calendar. 



63 



parent stem of tlie vine, in two places, lialf through, at 
opposite sides of the lateral. This drew off the sap, and 
no more berries burst. The vines have now young 
growths on them 9 inches long, and are appropriating 
all the sap, and the bleeding has ceased from the 
incisions. In February I had all the eyes picked out 
of the laterals except the one at the base of each. 
These are showing fruit like others that were pruned 
in the usual way, except the three I bled : they are 
much weaker than the others. From this experiment 
it may be reasonably inferred that it is not judicious 
to keep grapes hanging on the vines after the sap 
begins to rise. It, however, proves that it is possible 
to cut old grapes in May, and considering that new 
can be cut in January, gives an overlap of four months 
in the supply of grapes. 

amateur's vinery calendar. 

If ripe grapes are desired, say, on the 20th of July, 
it will be necessary to start the vines on the 1st of 
March, they having been pruned and dressed in the 
autumn, as already directed. 

If the border is in a proper condition, and the vines 
vigorous, begin with a night temperature of 50°, and 
allow it to rise to 65° with sun-heat during the day. 
Keep the atmosphere of the house as moist as possible, 
and syringe the vines several times daily with tepid 
water. As soon as the buds burst, raise the night tem- 
perature to 55°, and let there be a corresponding rise 
from sun-heat throughout their progress. When the 
buds are half an inch long, rub off all but the strongest 
one at each eye, and discontinue the syringing. As 
soon as the embryo fruit-buds can be seen in the points 



64 



amateur's vineey calendar. 



of the young shoots, raise the night temperature to 60°; 
and if they have the appearance of a sort of compro- 
mise betwixt a fruit-bud and a tendril, discontinue the 
supply of moisture to the atmosphere, and raise the 
temperature to 65°. This is a very critical stage with 
vines whose wood has not been w^ell ripened, and that 
is, in consequence, prone to show tendrils instead of 
bunches. The only chance of saving the crop is to give 
a high dry temperature. On the other hand, when the 
vines have been well ripened the previous year, the 
embryo bunches show themselves with the flower-buds 
well individualised, and there is little danger of their 
running off into claspers. This being the case, a 
moderate degree of moisture should be kept up from 
the steaming-tray. As soon as the shoots have run out, 
so that their points can be pinched off at two joints 
beyond the bunch, let it be done with care, so as not to 
injure the young leaves that are left. I recommend 
that, as soon as the best-shaped bunches can be dis- 
tinguished, all but one on a shoot should be taken off 
at once. This can generally be done when the shoots 
are stopped or pinched. ^Yhen the young shoots have 
become sufficiently woody to stand bending down to 
the wires, get them tied down carefully. Small lateral 
growths will start at each joint of the young shoots; these 
should be pinched, so as to leave one joint. Some leave 
no joint, but pinch off close. I have known this cause 
the proper eyes of the shoot to start, which is an evil. 
By the time the bunches are in bloom let the night heat 
be 70°, and keep the atmosphere dry. 

As soon as the berries are set, cut off all the bunches 
except those required for the crop at once. Any other 
course is a waste of sap, which will all be needed. It 
is difficult to give directions as to the number of bunches 



EXPERIMENTS WITH VINES. 



65 



that should be left on a vine, so much depends on the 
vigour of the plant and the size of the bunches. As a 
rule, I consider 1 lb. of grapes to every two superficial 
feet of glass a fair crop. Throughout the entire period 
of forcing, a constant circulation of air should be kept 
up, as directed in the body of this treatise. In May 
and June, if the weather is hot and dry, little fire-heat 
will be required, and consequently little evaporation will 
take place from the steaming apparatus. In such a 
case the paths and border may be sprinkled slightly 
with water; but avoid the stewing system by all means. 
As soon as the grapes are thoroughly ripe, the house 
should be kept as cool as it generally can be in July. 
In the case of Muscat grapes, I would let the tempera- 
ture at all stages be 5° higher than that I have recom- 
mended. I have shut up a Muscat house with a sun 
temperature of 100°; but 95° is safer, and 90° in the 
case of all other sorts. 



EXPERIMENTS WITH VINES. 

The first of these that I shall describe is that of a 
very large house of vines at Wrotham Park, Middlesex. 

When I entered on the management of these gardens, 
in the autumn of 1837, 1 found all the vineries in a very 
unsatisfactory state, and it was determined that the 
vines and borders of three of them should be renewed 
at once ; but the large house in question was not one of 
those — it was 65 feet long, 22 feet wide, 7 feet high in 
front, and the back wall 1 6 feet high. There was a row 
of strong cast-iron pillars running along the centre of it 
to support the rafters, and against these the vines were 
planted, twisting round them like enormous snakes. 

E 



66 



EXPERIMENTS WITH VINES. 



My employers were loath to have these old vines de- 
stroyed, and wished me to make an effort to renovate 
them if possible. I made a careful examination of the 
state and position of their roots, and found that none of 
them were within a foot of the surface of the soil. It 
was the custom to keep all the bedding plants standing 
on the floor of this house, and the constant watering 
and treading had made the whole surface, which had 
not been broken up for years, as hard as asphalt. This 
I had picked up, and removed from the house, to the 
depth of one foot ; I then got hold of the leading roots, 
and traced them as far as possible. When they could 
be pursued no further without going a great depth, I 
cut them, and coiled them round the pillars that sup- 
ported the stems, till in this way I had raised some 
eight or ten of the roots of each vine, not one of which, 
as far as I traced them, had any live rootlets on them. 
I had mats put round these bundles of roots, and kept 
them damp for the time being. I removed six old 
peach-trees that grew as standards in the house, the 
vines being confined to the rafters. I took out a large 
pit where each of these stood, and in doing so cut many 
of the roots of the vines. I then filled the pits for the 
peach-trees with the best turfy loam I could get, and 
planted them, and laid six inches of the soil I had 
prepared for the new vine-borders all over the surface 
of the border of this house, with a considerable extra 
allowance of good rotten dung. I then laid out all the 
roots on this bed of new soil, making a regular set of 
incisions with the knife right and left, about 9 inches 
apart, along their whole length, covering them over 
with six inches of the same compost, and giving them 
a good watering with warm water. This was done in 
March, just as their buds were beginning to swell. 



EXPERIMENTS WITH VINES. 



67 



They broke as weak as straws, and looked very miser- 
able till about the end of July, when they showed some 
signs of making second growths of a more vigorous 
character than the first. Shortly after this time I dug 
down to several of the roots I had made the incisions 
in, and found that, from the lip of each wound nearest 
the parent stem, a great number of young roots, like 
porcupine - quills, had started off into the new soil. 
This was in the summer of 1838, and in 1839 they 
broke comparatively strong, showing a fair crop of fruit, 
which they brought to perfect maturity. In 1840, and 
for seven or eight years afterwards, they bore first-rate 
crops of excellent grapes, colouring well. They were 
black Hamburg's. About 1848 they, however, began 
to indicate that their vigour was on the wane ; and as 
the house had to undergo extensive repairs, I removed 
them all to make way for a new border and young 
vines, except one at the west end of the house, which 
I kept, partly as a memento, and partly to experiment 
upon. During the process of removing the old border 
I had the entire soil and roots removed from the one 
in question to within 6 feet of its stem. I then re- 
moved the soil from the bare arms — for roots they 
could scarcely be termed — to within 3 feet all round ; 
and after making incisions in them as before, I laid 
them, radiating from the centre, in the new soil of 
the border made up for the young vines ; and though 
the vine looked sickly for a time, and the leaves flagged 
during sunshine, it soon recovered, and, for the subse- 
quent six years I had the management of it, bore fine 
crops of grapes. Of this vinery, and of the particular 
old vine in question, Mr Eobert Fish thus writes in 
' The Cottage Gardener and Country Centleman's Com- 
panion,' in the number for July 14, 1857, while describ- 



68 



EXPERIMENTS WITH VINES. 



ing the gardens at Wrotham Park : " We observed that 
the forcing-houses were showing well for fruit; that 
the huge vinery in the centre of the range — where the 
vines are planted in the centre of the house, the stems 
supported by iron pillars till they reach near the glass, 
and then branch to the back and front — was in great 
luxuriance, though the size of the stems spoke of the 
vines having seen many summers " (they were then, 
with the exception of that to be referred to, only nine 
years old), "and one of these stems seemed to be con- 
tending for the mastery with the iron column, clasping 
it so firmly, as ultimately, I fear, to suffer from the 
embrace." This latter was my old friend, whose roots 
I cut in so severely ; and when I saw this same house 
in 1860, this octogenarian — for such he must be — was 
in as great vigour as the comparatively young vines 
by his side."' 

Another, to some extent experimental, process, by 
which I renewed the border and replanted a house with 
Muscats at Wrotham Park, may be interesting, and 
probably useful, to some of my readers. This house 
was what had been a pine-stove ; and up each rafter a 
very old Hamburg vine was trained, pines being grown 
in a pit underneath them. For special reasons it was 
determined to grow fewer pines, so that this house would 
not in future require to be occupied with them ; and it 
was determined to make a new border, which had to be 
entirely outside the house, and plant the house with 
Muscats, after cutting a crop of grapes off the Ham- 
burgs, in 1847. With a view to this I got as many 
round flat hampers as there were rafters in the house 
to be planted, and set them on some boards on the 

* This vine continues to increase in vigour and fruitfulness, I learn, at this 
date, March 18G9. 



EXPERIMENTS WITH VINES. 



69 



floor of the large vinery previously described. In the 
bottoms of the hampers I laid thin turfs, with the grass 
sides down. On this I placed nice, sharp, but not very 
rich soil, and in March shook oat of their pots the 
required number of year-old Muscat vines, cut back to 
about ten eyes some months previously, placed the stem 
near one side of the hamper, and spread out the roots 
like the fingers of an extended hand, covering up with 
the same sort of soil, and finishing with a good water- 
ing, placing a hamper against each of the pillars and 
training the young rods up the pillars. As this large 
house was only kept a little closer than a greenhouse, 
the vines made fine short-jointed canes. By the latter 
end of June we had finished cutting the grapes on the 
black Hamburgs that the vines in the hampers were 
destined to replace, when I removed them, and on the 
1st of July had the border made up to the extent of 
9 feet in width along the front of the house. Seats 
were made in the soil of the border for the hampers, 
whose bottoms were rotten by this time. The planks 
on which they were set enabled us, however, to move 
them in safety. The young canes were introduced 
through the front wall as the old ones had been. About 
three joints of the previous year's wood were laid in the 
soil, after having an incision made in it below each 
joint. (The danger to be apprehended from the attacks 
of fungi would now lead me to omit the incisions, 
especially where bottom -heat is to be applied.) The 
hampers were then cut away and removed, leaving the 
great round flat ball full of fine young roots, to be 
covered over with 4 inches of soil. The young canes 
were from 12 to 14 feet long, two from each plant, 
when planted. They did not receive the slightest 
check to their growth, but made splendid canes to 



70 



EXPERIMENTS WITH VINES. 



the top of the house, and ripened thoroughly in the 
autumn. They would have yielded a good crop of 
grapes half-way up the house, in 1848, had they been 
allowed to do so. As it was, they were allowed to 
carry two bunches to each rod, making four to each 
plant. In 1849 they bore twelve bunches on each rod, 
and in 1850 the heaviest crop of Muscats I ever saw, 
many of the bunches weighing 3^ lb.; and up to 1860, 
when I saw them last, they have borne exceedingly 
heavy crops of fine grapes. Had I prepared a double 
set of vines in the same way, so as to have cropped 
one-half the first year, and then to have cut them out, 
the border and vines could have been renewed without 
the loss of a single crop. From this house I have more 
than once cut old grapes in March ; on one occasion, 
on the 16th of that month. 

At this date, March 1869, I have received the follow- 
ing replies to queries I addressed to Mr Edlington about 
this Muscat house : " The roots of the Muscats have 
traversed the border 15 feet wide, passed underneath 
the walk at a depth of two feet, and are there as thick 
as walking-sticks; and they extend 60 feet into the 
asparagus brake beyond the walk, in which they seem 
to luxuriate amazingly. The vines are in fine health, 
and every year they bear enormous crops without a 
shanked berry." Mr Edlington further states that he 
crops the vine-border proper with bedding plants half- 
way across it, and that he believes it does the vines no 
harm. My own opinion is, that the case might be other- 
wise were the feeding roots of the vines confined to the 
original border, instead of enjoying a roving commis- 
sion in the asparagus quarter. My heau ideal of a 
vine-border would be one tacked on to a well-made 
asparagus plantation, where top-dressing was an annual 



EXPERIMENTS WITH VINES. 



71 



event, and sufficient sun, air, and moisture, could be 
obtained, yet the vine-roots never disturbed by digging 
or trenching ; and no doubt this is one reason for the 
great and long-continued fruitfulness of the vines in 
question. 

The only other case of this character which I shall 
describe, as founded on my own experience, was the 
raising of the roots of a house of vines in the gardens 
at Dalkeith in June 1855. It was evident that the 
roots of the vines in question had grown down to the 
subsoil, and I determined to raise them and lay them 
in new soil. On the 8 th of June, after covering the 
glass of the house with a tarpaulin, I had a trench cut 
down right along the border, within 12 feet of the 
front of the house, and then cleared away all the old 
soil and raised the roots close up to the front wall. 
We thus had the whole of the roots disengaged from 
the soil, as there was then no border inside the house. 
I had them laid as fast as possible into the new soil, 
and well- watered. Their foliage all flagged and hung 
down ; but I kept the house close, moist, and warm, 
and excluded all the direct rays of the sun effectually. 
The berries in the bunches were the size of peas, and 
for a few days they were quite wrinkled in their skins. 
At the end of a week the leaves began to turn up a little. 
I then took off the tarpaulin and put on a lighter shad- 
ing of tiffany, and in the course of another week I 
removed this also and put on hexagon netting. In a 
month from the date of the operation they were per- 
fectly recovered and growing fast. They ripened 30 lb. 
of good grapes the same year, and in 1856 bore a splen- 
did crop of fruit, and continued to do so for three sub- 
sequent years. The vines were, however, old, and had 
been pruned on the long-spur system, which rendered 



72 



EXPERIMENTS WITH VINES. 



them unsiglitly. All our other vineries were planted 
with young vines in 1856, and in 1860 were in full 
bearing. Under these circumstances I was induced to 
make arrangements for doing away with the old vines 
in question, but, before doing so, determined to have 
one more crop off them as early as possible in 1861, 
and replant the house the same year. To hasten this I 
removed a pine-pit no longer required in the house, the 
removal of the front wall of which gave access to the 
roots of the vines in the outside border through the 
arches of the front wall of the house. I then filled the 
interior of the house, previously occupied by the pit, 
with hot fermenting dung and leaves. This material 
was placed in close contact with the roots of the vines 
through the arches, and acted as a hot lining to the 
entire border. The outside surface of the border was 
covered with dry leaves and thatched. The house Avas 
started in this way on the 1st of September, and on the 
1st of January 1861 we cut the first dish of grapes, — 
exactly three months earlier than we cut from the same 
house the year before, though started at the same time, 
and treated in the same manner, with the exception of 
the hot lining to the roots. Seeing that the success of 
this experiment was so satisfactory, and finding, on ex- 
amination, that a host of fine young roots had estab- 
lished themselves in the lining as it cooled, I made up 
my mind to give them another trial, and last summer I 
pruned them in July. In the end of August I put a 
quantity of hot fermenting dung and leaves on the top 
of the previous year's lining, so to speak ; and we cut 
excellent grapes on the 1st of January 1862. The 
crop was nearly double that of last year ; and in March 
the wood was perfectly ripe, and much stronger than 
ever I saw it in this house before. I need scarcely add 



EXPERIMENTS WITH VINES. 



73 



that the sentence at one time recorded against them for 
their unsightliness has been revoked. 

Some may consider that I have been tediously par- 
ticular in my efforts to explain this case ; but if so, 
they must excuse me on account of my anxiety clearly 
to establish the importance of bottom-heat for early- 
forced vines ; and from my own experience in the case 
of these vines, as well as from theoretical reasoning, I 
have come to the conclusion that it is less destructive 
to the constitution of vines to begin forcing them in 
August than in October. My opinion on this subject 
has been endorsed by Dr Lindley, whose great eminence 
as a vegetable physiologist is universally recognised. 
In his remarks in a leading article in * The Gardeners' 
Chronicle' for February 22, 1862, on an article on this 
subject, which I communicated to the ' Florist and Po- 
mologist' of that month, he says : " It is quite evident, 
as Mr Thomson points out, that the natural chemical 
advantages are all on the side of the earlier-forced vines. 
When started in August, they have before them three 
months of comparatively fine weather, which is of im- 
mense importance to them, and suffices for all the more 
critical periods of their development. When started in 
October to be ripe in March, the entire period of growth 
belongs to the most dreary and unpropitious part of the 
whole year ; so that it would seem resting the vines in 
the hot dry months of summer — dryness being at that 
period the maturing agent — and renewing the growth 
in August so as to snatch as much as possible of the 
fine weather of autumn for all the earlier stages of 
growth, turns out, in practice as it does in theory, to 
be the proper course for producing new ripe grapes on 
New Year's Day, and this with better results than 
would be obtained a couple of months later." 



[ ^4 1 



VINE -ROOTS. 

The roots of vines, like those of most other trees, 
have a tendency to descend into the earth, and when 
they reach certain subsoils they become unhealthy, 
besides which they are then far from the genial in- 
fluences of sun and air. To prevent this, remove a few 
inches of the surface of the border every summer dur- 
ing dry weather, which will most probably expose some 
of the roots, at any rate descend till they are reached, 
then on, under, and amongst these young roots lay a 
few inches of nice fresh loam, horse-dropping, and old 
lime-rubbish in equal parts, with a few handfuls of 
ground bones. Into this mixture the vines v/ill send 
a mass of fine feeding fibry roots, that with similar 
annual attention may be kept there, where they should 
be mulched as already directed, and during very hot 
dry weather fed with liquid manure, either from the 
farmyard or cesspool. When neither of these is avail- 
able, mix guano at the rate of one ounce to the gallon 
of water. If this process is persevered in, it reduces the 
importance of concreting the bottoms of vine-borders, 
as the vines seldom suffer from any roots formed at too 
great a depth. An amateur close to this place has for 
many years grown splendid crops of grapes, chiefly 
Muscats. The vines are planted in an outside border, 
only 6 feet of which was made soil, and the roots are 
all right through it into the general soil of his garden, 
which is poor, shallow, and gravelly ; but he annually 
covers more than 30 feet in width of the soil on each 
side of his span-roofed house with 6 inches of nearly 
solid cow-manure, which during the year washes into 



OPEN-AIR CULTURE. 



75 



the soil, and is, when examined, a complete mass of 
fine vine-roots, and is not disturbed except by the hoe, 
to kill weeds, the sharp hungry soil preventing all 
danger from over-feeding by such means. To this 
mulching, and occasional waterings during the late 
scorching summer of 1868, when every tree and bush, 
as well as weed, in his garden was covered with red 
spider, he attributes the immunity from that pest which 
vines enjoyed. From this vinery I conceive a sound 
lesson in grape-growing may be learned, hence my 
reason for referring to it. 

OPEN-AIR CULTURE. 

In the latitude of Britain the grape vine can only be 
grown in the open air with very partial success, even 
in the most favoured of the southern counties, and then 
it must be trained against a wall with a south aspect. 
The soil in which the ^dne should be planted for open- 
air culture, should not be so rich as that used for it 
under glass, and should consist of three-fourths light 
sandy loam, the other fourth to be made up of old lime- 
rubbish, brickbats, and burned clay, with a small propor- 
tion of broken bones. In this compost it will not make 
such strong canes as in a richer one, but they will ripen 
better, and have more prominent fruit-buds than the 
product of rich soil. The young wood should be nailed 
close up to the wall as it advances, so as to get the 
benefit during the night of the heat the wall has ab- 
sorbed from the sun during the day. As to pruning 
and training, the same course should be pursued as what 
I have recommended for the vine under glass. During 
the cold nights of spring, early summer, and autumn, 
great benefit will result from covering the soil along 



76 



OPEN-AIR CULTURE. 



the bottom of the wall where the roots of the vines are, 
Avith fern, straw, or any such litter, as soon as the sun 
ceases to shine on it; to be uncovered every morning 
when the sun shines on it again. In this way the heat 
derived from the sun is retained in the soil, instead of 
passing off by radiation, as it soon does, especially in 
clear cold nights. With a wooden rake the operation 
of covering and uncovering is soon performed, and 
might with great advantage be applied to other wall 
fruit-trees as well as to the vine. 

Various methods of protecting the young buds of the 
vines from spring frosts, such as covering with oiled 
calico, old fishing-nets, &c., will suggest themselves to 
all concerned. A considerable width of projecting 
coping is of much importance, in as far as, besides 
sheltering from frost, it throws the wet clear of the 
foliage and fruit of the vine. As soon as the grapes 
are set the soil may receive a good watering with soap- 
suds or any other liquid manure, to be repeated occa- 
sionally during the summer if the season is a dry one. 
During autumn and winter the roots should be kept as 
dry as circumstances mil admit of. In no case would 
I put a permanent mulching over the roots during 
summer, as it prevents the warming of the soil by the 
sun. A few cucumber or melon lights fixed against 
the wall, so as to cover the \dnes during autumn, will 
hasten the ripening of the fruit, and protect it from 
heavy rains. From what I have seen of the field 
culture of vines for producing wine in France and 
Germany, I consider that, by the application of greater 
horticultural skill, the crops of grapes might be very 
much increased, but it would be difficult to break 
through the strong crust of prejudice that exists in 
favour of things as they are. 



OPEN-AIR CULTURE. 



77 



In Australia, where extensive vineyards are being 
planted on the Hunter Eiver and elsewhere, though 
they have much to learn, they have nothing to unlearn, 
like their brethren on the continent of Europe. James 
Elliot Blake, Esq., of Tabelk Vineyard, Melbourne, 
informed me recently that when they extend their 
plantations they trench the soil, and then cut young 
canes from the established vines 6 feet long, and run 
one end of the cane 3 feet deep into the soil, and 
that they make very little progress for two years. If, 
instead of proceeding in this primitive way, they were 
the previous year to make a long range of trenches, 
sheltered round the sides by turf, over which during 
cold or excessively hot weather some sort of cloth could 
be run, they might strike plants from cuttings of two 
eyes by the thousand, to be transplanted by having 
their roots properly spread out in the soil as it is being 
trenched ; such plants would come sooner into a bear- 
ing state, and make better permanent vines than those 
planted as at present. And when the great value of 
the produce of a single acre of vineyard is considered, 
no ordinary preliminary expense ought to be withheld 
that would add to its productiveness. A gentleman, 
who has vineyards in the neighbourhood of Sydney, 
told me recently, that from one acre of vines he sells 
£100 worth of grapes in the Sydney market annually, 
and of those that are not fit for market he makes 
twelve hundred gallons of wine that he can sell at 3s. 
6d. per gallon. 

As a manure for vineyards nothing will prove so 
permanently beneficial as broken bones. The green 
prunings of the vines are also useful as a manure, and 
should be forked or dug into the soil once a-year ; but 
the roots of the vines should be disturbed as little as 



78 



OPEN-AIR CULTURE. 



possible. The stakes used for supporting the vines 
should have their points charred and dipped in pitch 
while hot, to a couple of inches above their ground 
line ; and instead of using a stake for each vine, four 
could be bent so as to meet at a central point, where 
they could be tied to one stake. 



NOTES ON CELEBEATED VINES. 



I AM indebted to my friend Mr Kose, gardener to her Majesty the 
Queen at the Eoyal Gardens, Frogmore, for the following informa- 
tion about two famous vines — the one at Hampton Court, the other 
at Cumberland Lodge. Of the former, Mr Eose wites : "As far 
as I can learn, the vine at Hampton Court was planted in a small 
house in the year 1768, and the house has been enlarged from time 
to time till it has attained its present size. The stem of this vine 
at the surface of the soil is 2 feet 10 inches in circumference. At 
3 feet from the surface, where it branches into three principal stems, 
it is 3 feet in circumference. These three leading stems run along 
the whole length of the house, branching off right and left, and 
covering with foliage an area of 1950 feet, yielding from 600 lb. to 
800 lb. of grapes annually, which are ripened in the autumn. The 
vine is a black Hamburg, and the system of pruning is the close- 
spur one. 

" That at Cumberland Lodge was planted about 70 years ago in 
a small pit by a foreman of the name of Tidy, who managed the 
place at that date. The vine, w^hich is also a black Hamburg, made 
such rapid progress, that a house was erected over it, which has been 
repeatedly enlarged to its present size — the last addition having 
been made some fifteen years ago. At the surface of the soil this 
vine is 3 feet in circumference ; at 2 feet from the soil it is 2 feet 
10 inches; here it branches into two main stems, which at 4 feet 
branches each into two rods, and run the whole length of the house, 
branching in all directions, covering an area of 2553 feet, and pro- 
ducing from 600 to 1200 lb. weight of good grapes annually, ripened 
late in autumn. It is pruned on the close -spur system. The border 
is 60 feet wide, and is not cropped. The house is 138 feet long, and, 
like that at Hampton Court, is heated by flues ; but little fire-heat 
is applied, as the vines are not forced. 



80 



NOTES ON CELEBRATED VINES. 



" On receipt of your letter, I went and examined another large 
vine at Sillwood Park, Sunningdale, near Ascot. It was planted 
about fifty years ago. The house it is in is 123 feet long, with a 
rafter 12 feet long. The vine is planted in the centre of the house 
its girth at the surface of the soil is 2 feet 4 inches. It branches 
into eight laterals on each side, right and left, which run the whole 
length of the house, occupying an area of nearly 1500 feet. It 
produces annually about 800 lb. of grapes. The border is the length 
of the house, and 29 yards wide, and has not been cropped of recent 
years." 

From my knowledge of the habits of the vine, I am certain that 
the feeding roots of these celebrated vines have gone in search of 
food far beyond the bounds of the borders assigned to them ; and I 
have little doubt that if they could be traced they would be found 
running in drains and sewers, absorbing the fluids therein contained. 

In a letter I recently received from Mr John Watson, gardener 
to Sir Robert Peel, Bart., at his seat, the Campagna Lammemun, 
near Geneva, he refers to three very large old vines in his neigh- 
bourhood. He writes : " I have ascertained from family documents 
that they were fine large vines a hundred years ago. The diameters 
of their stems near the ground is an average of 1 foot 6 inches, 
equal to a girth of 4 feet 6 inches. The finest of them grows on the 
slope of Mount Salne ; the other two on the flat plain that at one 
time probably formed part of the Lake of Geneva. The soil they 
are growing in is pan chalk, which, when dug up in autumn, looks 
more like a turnpike road than a vine-border ; yet these vines are 
in great vigour, and last autumn, owing to the hot summer, yielded 
more wine, and of higher quality, than usual. The Lake of Geneva 
is forty miles long ; on both sides it is planted with vines ; and during 
the autumn, hundreds of invalids come from all parts of the world 
to undergo what is termed the ' Grape cure ' here. They begin by 
eating J lb. of grapes a-day, and increase the quantity till it reaches 
13 lb., when they as gradually diminish it. By this means, I have 
known many remarkable cures effected, even of cancer, which had 
baffled the best medical skill." 

There is a famous old Muscat vine at Harewood, near Leeds. Mr 
Fowler, in reply to questions I addressed to him about it, writes : 
"It was planted in the year 1783, the girth of the stem 1 foot 
from the ground is 20 inches. It branches into two leaders, each 
of which is 17 inches in girth. In October 1857 I lifted its roots 
and laid them in fresh soil, the ripe grapes still hanging on it. I 
found the soil it was gTowing in in a very bad state, and without 
drainage. I covered the roots carefully with mats ; I gave the 



NOTES ON CELEBRATED VINES. 



81 



border plenty of drainage underneath, and placed turf fresh from 
the field with the grass side downwards over the brickbats and tiles 
used for this purpose. The soil of which I made the border was 
composed of fresh turf, chopped ap and mixed with a fair propor- 
tion of charcoal and ground bones. For a week the leaves drooped 
very much, after which they recovered, and the vine made some 
fresh growths before its leaves dropped. The soil being fresh turf, 
it heated up to about 70°, and this facilitated its recovery and the 
formation of fresh roots. I covered the border with glazed sashes, 
which threw off the autumn rains, and prevented the destruction of 
the recently-formed roots during the winter. In the spring it started 
very weak, but gradually gained strength during the season, since 
which date it has yielded an average of 400 bunches yearly, of 
about 1 lb. weight each. The system of pruning adopted for this 
vine is what is termed the long spur — i.e., I leave from three to four 
eyes of the young wood annually. Last year (1868) the wood of 
the old vine was as strong as that of our young vines, and I have no 
doubt it will improve for years to come. The grapes colour well, 
hang on the vine till March, and are of first-rate flavour." 

The oldest vines in Scotland are, in all probability, those in the 
garden of David Anderson, Esq. of Moredun, near Edinburgh. They 
-are about a hundred years of age. At one time they must have 
been grown as single rods over pines, as there is still a large pine-pit 
in the house. They are planted in an outside border, and their 
roots have gone out about 130 feet, passing under a garden-wall in 
their progress. They are in good health and vigour still. 
' I learn from Mr Osborn that the Finchly vine referred to in the 
body of this work is progressing as well as can be desired, bearing 
immense crops of fine grapes, and that the stem is now 1 7 inches in 
girth. For its age this is perhaps the most extraordinary vine in 
the country, seeing it is only fifteen years since it was struck from 
an eye. 

There is another famous black Hamburg vine growing in the 
Scottish Highlands at Kinnell, near the confluence of Loch Tay and 
the Dochart. This place was once the seat of " The M'j^abs," but 
is now the property of the Marquess of Breadalbane. I am indebted 
to Mr William Gorrie, landscape-gardener, Edinburgh, for the follow- 
ing particulars about this vine, which, he informs me, were derived 
from his own observation, and from Mr Murray, late gardener at Tay- 
mouth Castle, who once had the charge of it. It was planted in 
1832 by Mr Robert Gardener — who was then gardener at the place 
— in a small vinery. It now occupies a house 89 feet by 23 J feet, 
covering with its wood and foliage an area of 229 superficial yards. 

F 



82 



NOTES ON CELEBRATED VINES. 



Its stem is 16 inches in girth, and rises 6 feet before it branches off. 
It produces 600 bunches of grapes annually, and of excellent quality, 
never showing a shanked berry. Mr Murray attributes its great 
vigour to its roots having got into an asparagus plantation, where 
the soil was made up artificially to a depth of 4 feet. Mr John 
Christie, the present gardener at Kinnell, took leading prizes at 
some of the Perthshire horticultural exhibitions last year with 
grapes cut from this vine. 

Having thus noticed some of the most remarkable vines of which 
I have any knowledge, I close this treatise with an extract from a 
work called ' The Whole Art of Husbandry/ which was published 
in London in 1631 as a new edition of a very much older work, 
by a Captain Garvage Markham. It is, in all probability, a 
description of the first vinery ever erected, and from which it will 
appear that keeping grapes till the ISTew Year is not of modern 
date : — 

Thra. M tj^cre no toap to mafec tj^e ffirapc rtpc jipccDilg ? 

Marvis. Plinie Uac\)£t\), to nibbe omx tj^c Mooted t»it|& tart 
'Fmcgar, anli berg old S^inc, anD tl)ug to he often tiiggel), and 
cobmO. 

Thra. S^j^at ovDer j^abc gou tot prc^eruing of gour ©rapcg 
toijm tj^fg Jie gat^mti? 

Marvis. ^ome feccjpc ti)cm j^angcU up in tj^c roofc of c\)mhmf 
anD gome in cartj^en potg, cloM cohmt) feitj^ tooobtien bemh* 

35ut tf gou tJcgirc (Itbing in a coltic countrg tj^at ii3 j^avlitg capable 
of tj^e Wiim) to |)aue Srapeg in tijeir begt anD true fetnDe, mo?Jt 
earlg anti longest lasting, gou in tje mo!3t conuenient part of 
gour ^arDen, ig; ebcr tj^e center or mitDle point tfjerof, builO 

a rounti Souse in t|^e fasi)ion of a rounU 29ouecoate, but mrxcf) 
lotoer; tJje grounli=b)orlte b)l)ereof 0i)aU be abobe tj^e grount) ttoo or 
tj^ree 23ricfes tj^icfenesse, upon tj^is grounl)=plot gou sjiall place a 
grounliseU, anD tj^creon fine get strong stutiUs toj^icj^ mag reacj^ to 
tl)e roofe ; lijm stuDDS si)all be placet) better tj^en foure foote one 
from anotljer, toiti) little square barres of toooli, mcf) as gou use in 
Slasse bjintiobjes, ttoo bettoixt eberg tJoo stuDlis. ^ije rooffe gou 
mag mafee in fcoljat proportion gou foill; for tbisJ Souse mag serue 
for a Delicate banqueting Souse, anD gou mag either couer it feitS 
Sealie, ^late, or ^gle. i^ob) from tSe grounD to tSe top bettoeene 
tSe c^tulJtJS gou sSall glasse it toitS berg strong ^lasse, maOe in 



NOTES ON CELEBRATED VINES. 



83 



an CKCctiing large square pane, tocU leateti ant ©imentet) : 
Ijou^e tj^ug made, gou »i)aU obgerue tj^at tf)roug]^ tl)e 23ricfefcDorfe 
tijm he maDe, Jiethjeene eberg ttoo gtutts, square l)oles cleane 
tj[)rougi) into tj^e !)ouse. 'Eijtn on t|)e out giDe opposite against 
tj^ose J)oles, £ou sI)aU plant tj^e Moote of gour Wime j^auing {jeene 
bers carefull in tl)e election anD cj^ogce ti)erfof: iof)icf) Doone, as 
gour CSine grolretl), so gou sj^all tirafo it tj^roug]^ t^ose l)oles, anti 
as sou bsc to plas]^ a SSine against a toalle, so gou si)all plasjb 
t!)is against tj^e Slass tointoto on tj^e insite, ant> so soone as it 
Sj^all begin to beare ©rapes, gou sl)all te sure to turne eberg i3unt]^, 
so tj^at it mag lie clo&se to t{)e glasse, tj^at tj^e reflection of tj)e 
<^unne Ideating tl)e glasse, tj^at Ideate mag Ijasten on tije ripening 
anti increase tl)e grohjt]^ of gour ® rapes, as also tjbe j^ouse tieffenti= 
ing of all manner of euill toeatjier, tj^ege ©rapes bJill l)ang ripe 
unrotteD or toitj^ereti eben till €Cf)ristmas. '^W experiment ^at]^ 
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RELATION TO THE ATONEMENT ; WITH A ReVIEW OP RECENT SPECULATIONS 

ON THE Subject. By THOMAS J. CRAWFORD, D.D., Professor of Divinity 
in the University of Edinburgh. Third Edition, revised and enlarged^ with 
a Reply to the Strictures of Dr Candlish. Price 9s. 



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♦ 

In Two Volumes, post octavo, 
WITH TWELVE ILLUSTRATIONS, 

DOUBLES AND QUITS. 

By LAURENCE LOCKHART, 

Late Captain 92d Highlanders. 
OEIGTNALLY PUBLISHED IN" BLACKWOOD's MAGAZINE. 

MARY QUEEN OF SCOTS 

AND HER ACCUSERS. 

Embracing a Narrative of Events from the Death op James V. in 1552, 
UNTIL THE Close of the Conference at Westminster in 1569. 

By JOHN HOSACK, 

Barrister-at-Law. 

This work will contain tlie ' Book of Articles ' produced against Queen Mary 
at Westminster, which has never hitherto been printed. 

MEMOIR 

OF 

SIR WILLIAM HAMILTON, BART., 

PROFKSSOR OF LOGIC AND METAPHYSICS IN THE UNIVERSITY OF EDINBURGH. 

By professor.. VEITCH, 

Of the University of Glasgow. 
In 1 vol. 8vo, with a Portrait. 

SYMBOLISM; 

OR, 

MIND, MATTER, AND LANGUAGE AS THE NECESSARY 
ELEMENTS OF THINKING AND REASONING. 

By JAMES HAIG, M.A. 

SONGS AND VERSES: 

SOCIAL AND SCIENTIFIC. 
By AN OLD CONTRIBUTOR TO 'MAGA.' 

Just Ready, a New Edition. Fcap. 8vo, with Music of some of the Songs, 3s. 6d. 

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iety. . . . He has written songs, not essays — such a hotch-potch of science and humour, 
jest and literature, gossip and criticism, as might have been served at the Noctes Ambrosiause 
in the blue parlour at Ambrose's." — Saturday Review. 



LIST OF BOOKS 



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WILLIAM BLACKWOOD & SONS, 



EDINBURGH AND LONDON. 



THE 

HISTOET OE ETJEOPE, 

FROM THE COMMENCEMENT OF THE FRENCH REVOLUTION IN 1789 TO THE 
BATTLE OF WATERLOO. 

By Sir ARCHIBALD ALISON, Bart., D.C.L. 

A New Library Edition (being the tentli). In 14 Vols. Demy Octavo, with Portraits, 
and a copious Index, £10, 10s. 

In this Edition, which has been revised and corrected with the utmost diligence, 
care has been taken to interweave with the original text the new facts which have 
been brought to light since the last edition was published. It is believed that the 
Work will be found in all respects brought up to the latest authentic information 
that has appeared, on the epoch of which it treats. 

Crown Octavo Edition, 20 vols., £6. People's Edition, 12 vols., closely printed in 
double columns, £2, 8s., and Index Volume, 3s. 

EXTRACTS FROM REVIEWS OF THIS WORE. 
Times, Sept. 7, 1650. 

" An extraordinary work, which has earned for itself a lasting place in the literature of the 
country, and within a few years found innumerable readers in every part of the globe. There 
is no book extant that treats so well of the period to the illustration of which Mr Alison's 
labours have been devoted. It exhibits great knowledge, patient research, indefatigable in- 
dustry, and vast power." 

Edinbtirgh Review. 

" There is much in Mr Alison's history of the French Revolution against which we intend to 
record our decided protest ; and there are some parts of it which we shall feel compelled to 
notice with strong disapprobation. We, therefore, hasten to preface our less favourable 
remarks by freely acknowledging that the present work is, upon the whole, a valuable addition 
to European literature, that it is evidently compiled with the utmost care, and that its narra- 
tion, so far as we can judge, is not perverted by the slightest partiality." 

From Preface of the German Translation by D. Ludwig Meyer. 

" Alison's History of Europe, and the states connected with it, is one of the most important 
works which literature has produced. Years have elapsed since any historical work has created 
such an epoch as that of Alison : his sources of information and authorities are of the richest 
and most comprehensive description. Though his opinions are on the Conservative side, he 
allows every party to speak for itself, and unfolds with a master's hand how far institutions 
make nations great, and mighty, and prosperous." 



HISTOEY AND BIOGRAPHY 



Continuation of the History of Europe, from the Fall of 

Napoleon to the Accession of Louis Napoleon, By Sir Archibald Alison, 
Bart., D.C.L. In Nine Vols., £6, 7s. 6d. Uniform with the Library Edition 
of the Author's " History of Europe, from the Commencement of the French 
Eevolution," People's Edition, Eight Vols. Crown Octavo, 34s. 

Epitome of Alison's History of Europe. Fifteenth 

Edition, 7s. 6d., bound. 

Atlas to Alison's History of Europe ; containing 109 

Maps and Plans of Countries, Battles, Sieges, and Sea- Fights, Constructed by 
A. Keith .Johnston, F, R.S. E, With Vocabulary of Military and Marine Terms. 
Library Edition, £3, 3s. ; People's Edition, £1, lis. 6'd. 

Lives of lord Castlereagh and Sir Charles Stewart, 

Second and Third Marquesses of Londonderry, By Sir Archibald Alison, 
Bart,, D,C.L, From the Original Papers of the Family, and other sources. In 
Three Vols. Octavo, £2, 5s. 

Life of John Duke of Marlborough. With some Account 

of his Contemporaries, and of the War of the Succession, By Sir Archibald 
Alison, Bart,, D,C.L. Third Edition, Two Volumes, Octavo, Portraits and 
Maps, 30s, 

Essays; Historical, Political, and Miscellaneous. By 

Sir Archibald Alison, Bart, Three Vols. Demy Octavo, 45s, 

The Invasion of the Crimea : its Origin, and an Account 

OF ITS Progress down to the Death of Lord Kaglan, By Alexander 
William Kinglake, M. P. Vols, I, and II, , bringing the Events down to the 
Close of the Battle of the Alma. Fourth Edition. Price 32s. 



The Boscohel Tracts ; Relating to the Escape of Charles 

the Second after the Battle of Worcester, and his subsequent Adventures, 
Edited by J, Hughes, Esq., A.M. A New Edition, with additional Notes and 
Illustrations, including Communications from the Kev. R. H. Barham, Author 
of the " Ingoldsby Legends," In Octavo, with Engravings, 16s, 

" ' The Boscobel Tracts ' is a very curious book, and about as good an example of single sub- 
ject historical collections as may be found. Originally undertaken, or at least completed at the 
suggestion of the late Bishop Copplestone, in 1827, it was carried out with a degree of judgment 
and taste not always found in works of a similar character. The subject, as the title implies, is 
the escape of Charles the Second after the battle of Worcester."— Spectator. 

History of Scotland from the Revolution to the Extinction 

of the last Jacobite Insurrection, 1689—1748, By John Hill Burton, Esq,, 
Advocate. Two Vols. Octavo, 15s. 



PUBLISHED BY W. BLACKWOOD AND SONS, 



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The Autobiography of the Rev. Dr Alexander Carlyle, 

Minister of Inveresk. Containing Memorials of the Men and Events of his 
Time. Edited by John Hill Burton. In Octavo. Third Edition, with Por- 
trait, 14s. 

" This book contains by far the most vivid picture of Scottish hfe and manners that has been 
given to the pubhe since the days of Sir Walter Scott. In bestowing upon it this high praise, 
we make no exception, not even m favour of Lord Cockbum's Memorials — the book which re- 
sembles it most, and which ranks next to it in interest." — Edinburgh Review. 

" A more delightful and graphic picture of the everj^day life of our ancestors it has never been 

our good fortune to meet with We do not often pray for autobiographies— for, as a 

class of literatiu-e, they are of very unequal merit — but we shall heartily rejoice to see as 
many more autobiographies as possible if they ai'e half as well worth reading as Jupiter 
Carlyle's. " — National Review. 

" A more racy volume of memoirs was never given to the world— nor one more difficult to set 
forth— save by the true assertion, that there is scarcely a page which does not contain matter 
for extract or which would not bear annotation." — Athenceum. 



Life of the late Rev. James Robertson, D.D., T.R.S.E., 

Professor of Divinity and Ecclesiastical History in the University of Edinburgh. 
By the Eev. A. H. Charteris, M. A. With a Portrait. Octavo, price 10s. 6d. 



Memoir of the Political Life of the Right Honourable 

Edmund Burke, with Extracts from his Writings. By the Rev. George Crolt, 
D.D., Rector of St Stephen's, Walbrook, London. 2 vols. Post Octavo, 18s. 



History of G-reece under Foreign Domination. By &eorge 

FiNLAT, LL.D., Athens. Seven Volumes, Octavo — viz. : 

Greece under the Romans. B.C. 146 to A.D. 717. A Historical 

View of the Condition of the Greek Nation from its Conquest by the Komans 
until the Extinction of the Roman Power in the East. Second Edition, 16s. 

History of the Byzantine Empire. A.D. 716 to 1204 ; and of 

the Greek Empire of Nicsea and Constantinople, A.D. 1204 to 1453. Two 
Volumes, £1, 7s. 6d. 

Mediaeval Greece and Trebizond. The History of Greece, from 

its Conquest by the Crusaders to its Conquest by the Turks, A.D. 1204 to 
1566 ; and the History of the Empu-e of Trebizond, A.D. 1204 to 1461. 12s. 

Greece under Othoman and Venetian Domination. A.D. 1453 

to 1821. 10s. 6d. 

History of the Greek Revolution. 

Two Volumes, Octavo, £1, 4s. 

" His book is worthy to take its place among the remarkable works on Greek history which 
form one of the chief glories of Enghsh scholarship. The history of Greece is but half told 
without it." — London Guardian. 

" His work is therefore learned and profound. It throws a flood of light upon an important 
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accuracy, and learning, Mr Finlay bears a favourable comparison with any historical writer of 
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Essays in History and Art. 

COLOUR IN NATURE AND ART. 
REAL AND IDEAL BEAUTY. 
SCULPTURE. 

ETHNOLOGY OF EUROPE. 
UTOPIAS. 

OUR INDIAN EMPIRE. 

THE NATIONAL LIFE OF CHINA. 

AN IDEAL ART CONGRESS. 

In One V< 



By E. H. Patterson. 

BATTLE OF THE STYLES. 
GENIUS AND LIBERTY. 
YOUTH AND SUMMER. 

RECORDS OF THE PAST; NINEVEH AND 

BABYLON. 
INDIA : ITS CASTES AND CREEDS, 
"CHRISTOPHER NORTH"— IN MEMORIAM. 

tne. Octavo. 12s. 



The Ifew "Examen ; " or, An Inquiry into the Evidence 

of certain Passages in ''Macaulay's History of England" concerning 



THE DUKE OF MARLBOROUGH. 
THE MASSACRE OF GLENCOE. 
THE HIGHLANDS OF SCOTLAND. 



VISCOUNT DUNDEE. 
WILLIAM PENN. 



By John Paget, Esq., Barrister-at-Law. In Crown Octavo, 6s. 

Curran and Ms Contemporaries. By Charles Phillips, 

Esq., A.B. A New Edition. Crown Octavo, 7s. 6d. 

" Certainly one of the most extraordinary pieces of biography ever produced. . . . No 
library should he without it."— Lord Brougham. 

" Never, perhaps, was there a more curious collection of portraits crowded before into the 
same canvass." — Times. 



Paris after Waterloo. A Revised Edition of a " Visit to 

Flanders and the Field of Waterloo." By James Simpson, Advocate. With 
Two Coloured Plans of the Battle. Crown Octavo, 5s. 



lives of the Queens of Scotland, and English Princesses 

connected with the Kegal Succession of Great Britain. By Agnes Strickland. 
With Portraits and Historical Vignettes. Post Octavo, £4, 4s. 

"Every step iu Scotland is historical ; the shades of the dead arise on every side ; the very 
rocks breathe. Miss Strickland's talents as a writer, and turn of mind as an individual, in a 
peculiar manner fit her for painting a historical gallery of the most illustrious or dignified female 
characters in that land of chivalry and song. "—Blaclcwood's Magazine. 



life of Mary Queen of Scots. By Agnes Strickland. 

5 vols, post 8vo, with Portraits and other Illustrations, £2, 12s. 6d. 

Studies in Roman law. With Comparative Views of the 

Laws of France, England, and Scotland. By Lord Mackenzie, one of the 
Judges of the Court of Session in Scotland. Second Edition, Octavo, 12s. 



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Letters of Eminent Persons, addressed to David Hume. 

Edited by John Hill Burton, Esq., Advocate. Octavo, 5s. 



lectures on the History of the Church of Scotland, from 

the Eeformation to the Revolution Settlement. By the Very Rev. John Lee, 
D.D., LL.D., Principal of the University of Edinburgh. Edited by the Rev. 
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Works of the Eev. Thomas M'Crie, B.D. 

A New and Uniform Edition. Edited by Professor M'Crie. Four Volumes, 
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Life of John Knox. Containing Illustrations of the History 

of the Reformation in Scotland. Crown Octavo, 6s. 

Life of Andrew Melville. Containing Illustrations of the 

Ecclesiastical and Literary History of Scotland in the Sixteenth and Seven- 
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History of the Progress and Suppression of the Reformation 

in Italy in the Sixteenth Century. Crown Octavo, 4s. 

History of the Progress and Suppression of the Reformation 

in Spain in the Sixteenth Century. Crown Octavo, 3s. 6d. 

Sermons, and Review of the " Tales of my Landlord." 

In One Volume, Crown Octavo, 6s. 



The Monks of the West, from St Benedict to St Bernard. 

By the Count de Montalembert. Authorised Translation. Two Volumes, 
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translator's words instead of doing the work for ourselves. " — Quarterly Review. 



The Conquest of Scinde. A Commentary. By &eneral Sir 

James Outbam, C.B. Octavo, 18s. 

An Essay on the National Character of the Athenians. 

By John Brown Patterson. Edited from the Avithor's revision, by Professor 
PiLLANS, of the University of Edinburgh. With a Sketch of his Life. Crown 
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The lew Revolution ; or, the Napoleonic Policy in Europe. 

By R. H. Patterson. Octavo, 4s. 



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Ten Tears of Imperialism in France. Impressions of 

a " Flaneur." In Octavo, price 9s. 

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we expect for it not a little political influence as a fair, full, and masterly statement of the Im- 
perial policy — the first and only good account that has been given to Europe of the Napoleonic 
system now in force. " — Times. 

Memorials of the Castle of Edinburgli. By James &rant, 

Esq. A New Edition: In Crown Octavo, with 12 Engravings, 3s. 6d. 

Memoirs and Adventures of Sir Villiam Kirkaldy of 

Grange, Governor of the Castle of Edinburgh for Mary Queen of Scots. By James 
Grant, Esq. Post Octavo, 10s. 6d. 

" It is seldom, indeed, that we find history so written, in a style at once vigorous, perspicuous, 
and pictiu-esque. The author's heart is th-uroughly with his subject." — Blackwood's Magazine. 

Memoirs and Adventures of Sir John Hepburn, Marshal of 

France under Louis XIII., kc. By James Grant, Esq. Post Octavo, 8s. 

Annals of the Peninsular Campaigns. By Capt. Thomas 

Hamilton. A New Edition. Edited by F. Hardman, Esq. Octave, 16s. ; and 
Atlas of Maps to illustrate the Campaigns, 12s. 

The Story of the Campaign of SehastopoL Written in 

the Camp. By Lieut. -Col. E. Bruce Hamlet. With Illustrations drawn in 
Camp by the Author. Octavo, 21s. 

" We strongly recommend this ' Story of the Campaign ' to all who would gain a just compre- 
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existence ; nor is it paying the gallant author too high a compliment to class this masterpiece of 
military history with the most precious of those classic records which have been bequeathed to 
us by the great writers of antiquity who took part -in the wars thej' have described." — Tlic Press. 

Wellington's Career ; a Military and Political Summary. 

By Lieut. -Col. E. Bruce Hamley, Professor of MiHtary History and Art at the 
Staff College. Crown Octavo, 2s. 

Fleets and lavies. By Captain Charles Hamley, R.M. 

Originally published in BlacJcwoocT s Magazine. Crown Octavo, 6s. 

Memoir of Mrs Eemans. By her Sister. With a Portrait. 

Foolscap Octavo, 5s. 



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Leaders of the Reformation : Luther, Calvin, Latimer, 

and KNOX. By the Rev. John Tulloch, Principal, and Primarius Pro- 

fessor of Theology, St Mary's College, St Andrews. Second Edition, Crown 
Octavo, 6s. 6d. 

" We are not acquainted witli any work in which so much solid information upon the leading 
aspects of the great Reformation is presented in so well-packed and pleasing a {orm" -Witness. 

"The style is admirable in force and in pathos, and the book one to be altogether recom- 
mended, both for the merits of those of whom it treats, and for that which the writer uncoii- 
sciously reveals of his own character." — Gloie. 



English Puritanism and its Leaders: Cromwell, Milton, 

BAXTER, and BUNYAN. By the Rev. John Tulloch, D.D. Uniform with 
the Leaders of the Reformation." 7s. 6d. 

"His biographic delineations are not collections of vague generalities, but well-selected 
features combining to a likeness And, while always self-possessed and calm, he is never cold. 
A steady glow of imaginative fire and radiance follows his pen, and it is evident that he has 
legitimately acquired the right to interest and move others, by having first been moved him- 
self."-DiaZ. 

" It is a book which, from its style — firm and interesting, dispassionate and impartial, but yet 
warm with admiration — will be hailed for fireside reading in the families of the descendants of 
those Puritan men and their times." — Eclectic Review. 



History of the French Protestant Refugees. By Charles 

Weiss, Professor of History at the Lyc^e Buonaparte. Translated by F. Hard- 
man, Esq. Octavo, 14s. 



The Eighteen Christian Centuries. By the Rev. James 

White. Fourth Edition, with Analytical Table of Contents, and a Copious 
Index. Post Octavo, 6s. 

" He goes to work upon the only true principle, and produces a picture that at once satisfies 
truth, arrests the memory, and fills the imagination. When they (Index and Analytical Con- 
tents) are supplied, it will be difficult to lay hands on any book of the kind more useful and 
more entertaining." — Times, Review of first edition. 

" Mr White comes to the assistance of those who would know something of the history of the 
Eighteen Christian Centuries ; and those who want to know still more tlian he gives them, will 
find that he has perfected a plan which catches the attention, and fixes the distinctive feature 
of each century in the memory." — Wesleyan Times. 



History of France, from the Earliest Period to the Tear 

1848. By the Rev. James White, Author of the "Eighteen Christian Cen- 
turies." Second Edition. Post Octavo, 6s. 

" Mr White's ' History of France,' in a single volume of some 600 pages, contains every lead- 
ing incident worth the telling, and abounds in word-painting whereof a paragraph has often as 
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clearly seen the whole armies contending in bloody arbitrament, and as many incidents of battle 
as may be gazed at in the miles of canvass in the military picture-galleries at Versailles." — 
Athenceum. 

" An excellent and comprehensive compendium of French history, quite above the standard 
of a school-book, and particularly well adapted for the libraries of literary institutions." — 
National Review. 



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POETEY 



lays of the Scottish Cavaliers, aaid other Poems. By 

W. Edmondstoune Attoun, D.C.L., Professor of Ehetoric and Belles-Lettres 
in the University of Edinburgh. Twentieth Edition, Foolscap Octavo, 7s. 6d. 

" Mr Aytoun's 'Lays' are truly beautiful, and. are perfect poems of their class, pregnant with 
fire, with patriotic ardour, with loyal zeal, with exquisite pathos, with noble passion. Who can 
hear the opening lines descriptive of Edinburgh after the great battle of Plodden, and not feel 
that the minstrel's soul has caught the genuine inspiration?" — Morning Post. 

" Professor Aytoun's 'Lays of the Scottish Cavaliers' — a volume of verse which shows that 
Scotland has yet a poet. Full of the true fire, it now stirs and swells like a trumpet-note— now 
sinks in cadences sad and wild as the wail of a Highland dirge." — QuaHerly Review. 



Aytoun's Lays of the Scottish Cavaliers. An Illustrated 

Edition. From Designs by J. Noel Paton and W. H. Paton, A.R.S.A. En- 
graved by John Thompson, W. J. Linton, W. Thomas, Whymper, Cooper, Green, 
Dalziels, Evans, &c. In Small Quarto, printed on Toned Paper, bound in gilt 
cloth, 21s. 

" The artists nave excelled themselves in the engravings which they have furnished. Seizing 
the spirit of Mr Aytoun's ' Ballads ' as perhaps none but Scotchmen could have seized it, they 
have thrown their whole strength into the work with a heartiness which others would do well 
to imitate. Whoever there may be that does not ah-eady know these ' Lays ' we recommend at 
once to make then- acquaintance in tliis edition, wherein author and ai-tist illustrate each other 
as kindred spirits should. " — Standard. 



Bothwell : A Poem. By W. Edmondstoune Aytoun, D.C.I., 

Professor of Rhetoric and Belles-Lettres in the University of Edinburgh. Third 
Edition. Foolscap Octavo, 7s. 6d. 

" A noble poem, healthy in tone and jiurely English in language, and closely linked to the 
historical traditions of his native country."— Jo/i)i Bxdl. 

" Professor Aytoun has produced a fine poem and an able argument, and ' Bothwell ' will 
assuredly take its stand among the classics of Scottish literature. " — The Press. 



The Ballads of Scotland. Edited by Professor Aytoun. 

Third Edition. Two Volumes, Foolscap Octavo, 12s. 

"No country can boast of a richer collection of Ballads than Scotland, and no Editor for 
these Ballads could be found more accomplished than Professor Aytoun. He has sent forth 
two beautiful volumes which range with Percy's 'Reliques '—which, for completeness and accuracy, 
leave little to be desired — which must henceforth be considered as the standard edition of the 
Scottish Ballads, and which we commend as a model to any among ourselves who may think of 
doing like service to the English Ballads. " — The Times. 



Poems and Ballads of G-oethe. Translated by Professor 

Aytoun and Theodore Martin. Second Edition, Foolscap Octavo, 6s. 

" There is no doubt that these are the best translations of Goethe's marvellously-cut gems 
I which have yet been published." — The Times. 



The Book of Ballads. Edited by Bon Gaultier. Eighth 

Edition, with numerous Illustrations, by Doyle, Leech, and Cjrowquill. Gilt 
Edges, Post Octavo, 8s. 6d. 



Pirmilian, or the Student of Badajoz. A Spasmodic 

Tragedy. By T. Percy Jones. In Small Octavo, 5s. 

" Humour of a kind most rare at all times, and especially in the pesent day, runs through 
every page, and passages of true poetry and delicious versification prevent the continual play of 
sarcasm from becoming tedious. " — Literary Gazette. 



PUBLISHED BY W. BLACKWOOD AND SONS, 



POETRY 



Poetical Works of Thomas Aird. Complete Edition, in 

One Volume, Foolscap Octavo, 6s. 
" Mr Aird is a poet of a very high class, and in that class he occupies no mean or middling place. 
His imagination is lofty, his invention fertile, his sentiments heroic, and his language generally 
clear and forcible." — Scots^nan. 

Poems. By the lady Flora Hastings. Edited by her 

Sister. Second Edition, with a Portrait. Foolscap, 7s. 6d. 

The Poems of Eelioia Hemans. Complete in one Volume, 

Eoyal Octavo, with Portrait by Finden, Cheap Edition, 12s. 6d. Another Edition, 
with MEMOIH by her Sister, Seven Volumes, Foolscap, 35s. Another Edition, 
in Six Volumes, cloth, gilt edges, 24s. 

" Of no modern writer can it be affirmed with less hesitation, that she has become an English 
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the least probability that the music of her lays will cease to soothe the ear, or the beauty of her 
sentiment to charm the gentle heart. — Blackwood's Magazine. 

The following Works of Mrs Hemans are sold separately, bound in cloth, gilt edges, 

4s. each : — 



RECORDS OF WOMAN. 
FOREST SANCTUARY. 
SONGS OF THE AFFECTIONS. 



DRAMATIC WORKS. 

TALES AND HISTORIC SCENES. 

MORAL AND RELIGIOUS POEMS. 



The Odyssey of Homer. Translated into English Terse in 

the Spenserian Stanza. By Philip Stanhope Worsley, M.A., Scholar of 
Corpus Christi College, Two Volumes, Crown Octavo, 18s. 

Poems and Translations. By P. S. Worsley, M.A., 

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Poetical Works of D. M. Moir (Delta). With Portrait, and 

Memoir by Thomas Aird, Second Edition, Two Volumes, Foolscap Octavo, 12s, 



Translations by Theodore Martin : 

Goethe's Faust. Second Edition, Crown Octavo, 6s. 

The Odes of Horace. With Life and Notes. Second Edition, 

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CatuUus. With Life and Notes. Post Svo, 6s. 6d. 

The Vita Nuova of Dante. With an Introduction and Notes. 

Square Svo, 7s. 6d, 

Aladdin: A Dramatic Poem. By Adam Oehlenschlaeger. 

Foolscap Octavo, 5s. 

Correggio: A Tragedy. By Oehlenschlaeger. With Notes. 

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King Rene's Daughter: A Danish Lyrical Drama. By 

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The Course of Time : A Poem. In Ten Books. By Robert 

POLLOK, A.M. Twenty-third Edition, Foolscap Octavo, 5s. 

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An Illustrated Edition of the Course of Time. In large 

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Poems and Ballads of ScMUer. Translated by Sir Edward 

BULWER Lttton, Bart. Second Edition, Octavo, 10s. 6d. 

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St Stephens ; Or, Illustrations of Parliamentary Oratory. 

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NEW GENERAL ATLAS. 



DEDICATED BY SPECIAL PERMISSION TO HER MAJESTY. 



THE KOYAL ATLAS 

OP 

MODERN GEOGRAPHY 

IN A SERIES OF ENTFRELY ORIGINAL AND AUTHENTIC MAPS. 

BY A. KEITH JOHNSTON, F.R.S.E. F.R.G.S. 

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Athenaeum, August 10, 1861. 

Under the name of " The Royal Atlas of Modern Geography," Messrs Blackwood and Sons 
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love clear forms and delicate bold type we need say no more. All that maps should be, these 

maps are : honest, accurate, intelligible guides to narrative or description Of the 

many noble atlases prepared by Mr Johnston and published by Messrs Blackwood and Sons, 
this Royal Atlas will be the most useful to the public, and will deserve to be the most popular. 

Saturday Eeview, 

The completion of Mr Keith Johnston's Royal Atlas of Modern Geography claims a special notice 
at our hands. While Mr Johnston's maps are certainly unsurpassed by any for legibility and 
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Atlas has a distinguishing merit in the fact that each map is accompanied by a special index of 
remarkable fulness. The labour and trouble of reference are in this way reduced to a minimum. 
. . . . The number of places enumerated in the separate indices is enormous. We believe, 
indeed, that every name which appears in the maps is registered in the tables ; and as each 
place is indicated by two letters, which refer to the squares formed by the parallels of latitude 

and longitude, the method of using the index is extremely easy and convenient We 

know no series of maps which we can more warmly recommend. The accuracy, wherever we 
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Guardian. 

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Examiner. 

There has not, we believe, been produced for general public use a body of maps equal in 
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Scotsman. 

An almost daily reference to, and comparison of, it with others, since the publication of the 
first part some two years ago until now, enables us to say, without the slightest hesitation, that 
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Index GreograpMcus : Being a List, Alphabetically ar- 

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Volume Imperial Octavo, pp. 676, price 21s. 

The Physical Atlas of Natural Phenomena. By Alex. 

Keith Johnston, F.R.S.E., &c., Geographer to the Queen for Scotland. A New 
and Enlarged Edition, consisting of 35 Folio Plates, 27 smaller ones, printed in 
Colours, with 135 pages of Letterpress, and Index. 

SUBJECTS TREATED OF. 



Geography and Orography, .... 11 Plates. 

Hydrography, 6 „ 

Meteorology and Magnetism, . . . . 6 „ 

Botanical Geography, 2 „ 

Zoological Geography, 6 „ 

Ethnology and Statistics, 4 „ 



Imperial Folio, half-bound morocco, £8, 8s. 

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The Physical Atlas, By Alexander Keith Johnston, 

F.R.S.E., F.R.G.S., Geographer to the Queen for Scotland. Reduced from the 
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Atlas of Scotland. 31 Maps of the Counties of Scotland, 

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A Greological Map of Europe, exhibiting the different 

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the Geological Survey of Great Britain and Ireland ; and James Nicol, F.R.S.E., 
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Keith Jolmston's School Atlases :— 

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General and Descriptive Geography, exhibiting the Actual 

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Physical Geography, illustrating, in a Series of Original 

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Classical Geography: Comprising, in Twenty-three Plates, 

Maps and Plans of all the important Countries and Localities referred to 
by Classical Authors ; accompanied by a pronouncing Index of Places, by T. 
Harvey, M.A. Oxon. A New and Eevised Edition. Half-bound, 12s. 6d. 

Astronomy. An Entirely New Edition. Notes and Descrip- 
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V. 

Elementary School Atlas of General and Descriptive Geogra- 
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including a Map of Canaan and Palestine, Half-bound, 5s. 

" They are as superior to all School Atlases within our knowledge, as were the larger works 
of the same Author in advance of those that preceded them." — Ediicational Times. 

" Decidedly the best School Atlases we have ever seen." — English Journal of Education. 

"... The P/ii/sica I ^iZas seems to us particularly well executed. . . . The last gene- 
ration had no such help to learning as is afforded in these excellent elementary maps. The Class- 
ical Atlas is a great improvement on what has usually gone by that name ; not only is it fuller, 
but in some cases it gives the same country more than once in different periods of time. Thus it 
approaches the special value of a historical atlas. . , . The General Atlas is wonderfully full 
and accurate for its scale. . . . Finally, the Astronomical Atlas, in which Mr Hmd is respon- 
sible for the scientific accuracy of the maps, supplies an admitted educational want. No better 
companion to an elementary astronomical treatise could be found than this cheap and convenient 
collection of maps. "—-Saturday Review. 

" The plan of these Atlases is admirable, and the excellence of the plan is rivalled by the beauty 
of the execution. . . . The best security for the accuracy and substantial value of a School 
Atlas is to have it from the hands of a man like our Author, v/ho has perfected his skill by the 
execution of much larger works, and gained a character which he will be careful not to jeopar- 
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Atlas of Plajis of Countries, Battles, Sieges, & Sea-Figlits, 

Illustrative of the History of Europe from the Commencement of the French 
Revolution io the Battle of Waterloo. Constructed by A. Keith Johnston, 
F.E.S.E., &c. &c. With Vocabulary of Military and Marine Terms. 109 
Plates, Demy Quarto, price £3, 3s. Another Edition, in Crown Quarto, 
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A lew Map of Europe. By A. Keith Johnston, T.R.S.E., 

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Greological Map of Scotlaad. From the most Recent Au- 
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The Topography by Alexander Keith Johnston, F.RS.E., &c. Scale, 10 
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A Small G-eological Map of Europe. From Keith John- 

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A Greological Map of the British Isles. Erom the same. 

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Physical Geography : lUustrating, in a Series of Original 

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Classical G-eography: Comprising, in Twenty-three Plates, 

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Astronomy: Comprising, in Eighteen Plates, a Complete 

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Greological and Palseontological Map of the British 

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The Book of the Farm. Detailing tlie Labours of the 

Farmer, Farm-Steward, Ploughman, Shepherd, Hedger, Cattle-mau, Field-worker, 
and Dairymaid, and forming a safe Monitor for Students in Practical Agriculture. 
By Henry Stephens, F.E.S.E. Two Volumes, Eoyal Octavo, £3, handsomely 
bound in cloth, with upwards of 600 Illustrations, 

"The best book I have ever met witli." — Professor Johnston. 

"We have thoroughly examined these volumes ; but to give a fall notice of their varied and 
valuable contents would occup}' a larger space than we can conveniently devote to their dis- 
cussion ; we therefore, in general terms, commend them to the careful study of every young 
man who ^vishes to become a good practical farmer. — Times. 



The Book of Farm Implements and Machines. By James 

Slight and K. Scott Burn. Edited by Henry Stephens, F. R. S. E. Illus- 
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The Book of Farm Buildings : their Arrangement and 

Construction. By Henry Stephens, F. R.S.E., and R. Scott Burn. Royal 
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The Book of the &arden. By Charles M'Intosh. In Two 

large Volumes, Royal Octavo, embellished with 1353 Engravings. 

Each Volume may he had sejoarately — viz. 

I. ARCHITECTURAL and ORNAMENTAL.— On the Formation of Gardens— Con- 

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other Garden Structures, with Practical Details. Illustrated by 1073 Engravings, 
pp. 776. £2, 10s. 

II. PRACTICAL GARDENING, Contains— Du-eetions for the Culture of the Kitchen 
Garden, the Hardy-fruit Garden, the Forcing Garden, and Flower Garden, includ- 
ing Fruit and Plant Houses, with Select Lists of Vegetables, Fruits, and Plants. 
Pp. 868, with 279 Engravings. £1, 17s. 6d. 

"In the construction of every kind of building required in a garden, the 'structural' section 
of the work will be found to contain a large amount of information suitable alike for buildings 
and gardens. Mr M'Intosh being himself one of the most experienced garden architects of our 
time, minute details are given, so that the expense of even a pit, up to a garden replete with 
every necessary erection, may be at once ascertained, a matter of no small importance to gentle- 
men about either to form new gardens, or improve such as already exist. ... On the whole, 
this volume on stnxctural gardening, both in compilation and artistical execution, deserves our 
warmest commendation. 

" The second volume is of a cultural character, and has been got up with great care and re- 
search. It embodies the opinions and practice of the older writers on Horticulture, and also, 
what is of more importance, the experience of our eminent modern gardeners on the subject, 
together with the opinions of our author, who has studied and practised the art for upwards of 
half a century, both in this country and on the Continent. . . . We therefore feel justified 
in recommending Mr M'Intosh's two excellent volumes to the notice of the public. "— Gardeners' 
Chronicle. 



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Practical System of Farm Book-Keeping : Being that re- 

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System, the whole being specially adapted for keeping, by an easy and accurate 
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£1, 6s. Od. Also, A Labour Account of the Estate, 2s. 6d. 

"We have no hesitation in. saying, that of the many systems of keeping farm -accounts wiiich 
are in vogue, there is not one which will hear comparison with that just issued by Messrs Black- 
Wood, according to the recommendations of Mr Stephens,, in his invaluable 'Boole of the Farm.' 
The great characteristic of this system is its simplicity. When once tlie details are mastered, which 
it will take very little trouble to accomplish, it will be prized as the clearest method to show 
the profit and loss of business, and to prove how the soundest and surest calculations can be 
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as a whole to be thoroughly profitable — for we are convinced the verdict of oui- agricultural friends 
who make such a trial will speedily accord with our own." — Bell's Messenger. 

Agricultural Statistics of Scotland. Report by the High- 

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Ainslie's Treatise onland-Surveying. Anew and enlarged 

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' ' The best book on surveying with which I am acquainted. "— W. Rutherford, LL. D. , F.R.A.S. , 

Royal Military Academy, Woolwich. 

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The Torester : A Practical Treatise on the Planting, 

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" What we have often stated in these columns we now repeat, that the book before us is. the 
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so that he does not fall into the mistakes which mere theorists, or mere practicals, have each 
committed on so large a scale, in too many great places. We will even add, that it has been to 
the advice and instruction given in two former editions of the ' Forester,' now exhausted, that 
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Handbook of the Mechanical Arts concerned in the Con- 

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The West of Ireland as a Field for Investment. By James 

Caikd, Farmer, Baldoon. Octavo, with a Map, 6s. 

The Practical Planter j Containing Directions for the 

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Elkington's System of Draining : A Systematic Treatise 

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The Preparation of Cooked Eood for the Fattening of 

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Journal of Agriculture, and Transactions of the Highland 

AND AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY OF SCOTLAND. 

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Elements of Agricultural Chemistry and Geology. Eighth 

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the Author, has caused him to take additional pains in improving and adding to the amount of 
useful information, in the present edition. "—P;'e/ace. 

On the Use of Lime in Agriculture. 

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Instructions for the Analysis of Soils. 

Foui'th Edition, 2s. 

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Disease and Present Condition of the Larch Plantations iu Great Britain. By 
Charles M'Intosh, Associate of the Linnaean Society, &c. &c. In Crown Octavo, 
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View of the Salmon-Fishery of Scotland. With Obserra- 

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On the Management of Bees. By Br Mackenzie, Eileanach. 

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The Chemistry of Vegetable and Animal Physiology. By 

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The Grrasses of Britain. Illustrated by 140 Figures, Drawn 

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Uses in Agriculture. Royal Octavo, 42s. 

The Relative Value of Round and Sawn Timber, shown 

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Dairy Management and Feeding of Milch Cows : Being the 

recorded Experience of Mrs Agnes Scott, Winkston, Peebles. Second Edition, 
Foolscap, Is. 

Italian Irrigation : A Eeport addressed to the Hon. the 

Court of Directors of the East India Company, on the Agricultural Canals of 
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and Central India. By Lieut. -Col. Baird Smith, C.B. Second Edition. Two 
Volumes, Octavo, with Atlas in Folio, 30s. 

The Architecture of the Tarm : A Series of Designs for 

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One of the most useful and beautiful additions to Messrs Blackwood's extensive and valuable 
library of agricultural and rural economy." — Morning Post. 

The Tester Deep Land-Culture : Being a Detailed Account 

of the Method of Cultivation which has been successfully practised for several 
years by the Marquess of Tweeddale at Tester. By Henry Stephens, Esq., 
F.R.S.E., Author of the ♦ Book of the Farm.' In Small Octavo, with Engravings 
on Wood, 4s. 6d. 



A Manual of Practical Draining. By Henry Stephens, 

F.KS.E., Author of the * Book of the Farm.' Third Edition, Octavo, 5s. 



A Catechism of Practical Agriculture. By Henry Stephens, 

F.K.S.E., Author of the 'Book of the Farm,' &c. In Crown Octavo, with Illus- 
trations, Is. 

" We feel perfectly assured that this Catechism is precisely the thing which at this moment 
is wanted in every riiral and national school in England, more especially since the question 
has arisen, How is it possible to educate skilled agricultural labourers more in the direction of 
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A Handy Book on Property law. By lord St Leonards. 

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executors, in a little book for the milhon, a book which the author tenders to the profanum val- 
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The Practical Irrigator and Drainer. By Greorge Stephens, 

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1 



The Planter's Gruide. By Sir Henry Steuart. A lew 

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Stable Economy : A Treatise on the Management of Horses. 

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Advice to Purchasers of Horses. By John Stewart, T.S. 

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Agricultural Labourers, as they Were, Are, and Should be, 

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A Practical Treatise on the Cultivation of the &rape 

VINE. By William Thomson, Gai-dener to His Grace the Duke of Buccleuch, 
Dalkeith Park. Fifth Edition Octavo, 5s. 

The Moor and the loch. Containing Minute Instructions 

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By John Colquhoun, Esq. Third Edition, in Octavo, with Illustrations, 12s. 6d. 

Salmon-Casts and Stray Shots : Being Fly-Leaves from the 

Note-Book of John Colquhoun, Esq., Author of the " Moor and the Loch," &c. 
Second Edition, Foolscap Octavo, 5s. 

Coquet -Dale Fishing Songs. low first collected by a 

North-Country Angler, with the Music of the Airs. Octavo, 5s. 

The Angler's Companion to the Rivers and Lochs of 

SCOTLAND. By T. T. Stoddart. With Map of the Fishing Streams and Lakes 
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Shooter's Diary or &ame Book for recording the quantity 

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Angler's Diary for recording the quantity of Eish Killed, 

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The Chemistry of Common Life. By Professor J. E. ¥. 

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The Physiology of Common Life. By G-eorge H. Lewes, 

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Contents :— Hunger and Thirst.— Food and Drink.— Digestion and Indigestion.— The Struc- 
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Introductory Text-Book of Physical G-eography. By 

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Introductory Text-Book of Greology. By David Page, E.&.S. 

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The GreologicalExaminator: A Progressive Series of Ques- 

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The Past and Present Life of the Globe : Being a Sketch 

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Chaplain and Naval Instructor, Royal Navy. Illustrated with Diagrams. 
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A Nomenclature of Colours, applicable to the Arts and 

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The Geology of Pennsylvania : A Government Survey ; 

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Introduction to Meteorology. By David P. Thomson, M.D. 

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rive Place Logarithms. Arranged by E. Sang, T.R.S.E. 

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Religion in Common life : A Sermon Preached in CratMe 

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